This climb starts on where Nutcracker ends.  It ascents a formation that looks a bit like a drumstick.  Stem, hands, chimney to the top and rap to the base from slings on a chockstone. Then walk off left.

The Doil

Fledgling

Nutcracker

This is a crack behind a triangular-shaped flake/tower. It begins with a wide section down low and gets a little thinner the higher you go, there's quite a few holds on the wall and the flake that make the upward movement much easier. It gets wide again at the top, but with a little less quality rock on the flake. Clip a set of drilled angle anchors and stand on top of the flake and soak up the view of Arches! You can rap back down the flake, but make sure and give your rope a good tug to not get caught in the crack. (People have rapped over the front of the flake, but it puts rope grooves in the flake.)Desert Rock I gives a good description of the climb except where it says to downclimb the route. It has anchors and is easy to rap

This crack climb is one of Arche's easiest climbs and a quick tick.  It has a short approach, a walk off, and is easy to find, and has good protection.  It's not the greatest climb on the planet, but it's worth a spin.  Combine it with the Doil (which starts where Nutcracker finishes), and you get another climb to experience.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The 100-yard Wall