Black and Tan was originally a mostly bolted route with a scary crux over tiny gear.  This route has now been fully bolted (with approval from the FA and the SSPFHRG) and makes for a fun lead.  Start on the boulder at the top of the corridor, and follow 11 bolts through a couple steep bulges.

Black and Tan

No Opportunity Missed

Turkey Time

The Altruist

Ddong Chim!

Dark Knight

The Opportunist

Tickle My Blossom

Rolling Black Out

Welcome to Staunton

Reef On It!

Do The Kegel

Never Named, No.  39

4 Finger Discount

Crushing My Gear to Climb

Three Bite Burrito

Chalkdust Tourture

No Rain

Ginger Snap

Jerry the Gnome

Muricuh

80 Grit

Seasoned Forgiving

Work your way up jugs to the first bolt, then meander up the face through interesting and devious climbing. Surmount the headwall, and follow a fun slab to a final headwall with interesting fin features.

No Opportunity Missed is a new variation to

The Opportunist

that climbs some really fun, steep rock. This route was recently approved by the SSPFHRG. Clip the first 3 bolts of

The Opportunist

, then step right and follow 6 bolts to an independent anchor.

This route might make you fluff your feathers if you are in to that kind of thing.... This is a fun route with great stone and a fine warm-up for the area. In the Fixed Pin guide, this route is listed as a top rope called "The Climbing Volunteer."

The Altruist has fantastic crimping and powerful movement on a beautiful, sustained, and seemingly blank section of wall in the middle of the Tan Corridor. Some bouldery 12- climbing gets you past the first two bolts and into the crux as you climb towards the third bolt and execute a 13- sequence to get to a good clipping stance. From there, continue the fight on crimps as you make your way past the next bolt to gain better holds, and cruise up left at mid-height for an easier finish on

No Opportunity Missed

. You can also go right at the 4th bolt and finish on

Welcome to Staunton

.

Ddong Chim

is an unrelenting pumper to the top.  Start in pockets to the left of

The Opportunist

, and follow 8 bolts through steep terrain.

Prepare for your send of this route by playing the following:

Ddong Chim game

.

Like the Dark Knight, there is a dark side to this climb: the runout between bolts 2-3. The climb starts up the black streak on loose looking rock that turns out to be solid. Bolt 2 protects a hard bulge (it can be done straight on or traverse right and up). Once past this, there is another tough move (again can be done straight on or to the right) to get to bolt 3.  After bolt 4, protect it with cams, and pass one more challenging spot through a bulge.

Start left of the overhanging 5.12s. It is the first bolted line left of them. Climb bulge to water streak. This stays wet for a few days after heavy rain.

This climb might just well, tickle your blossom.  That or the tree behind you will.  Either way, you'll have a good time.  Start up some cool natural pockets (optional red tricam), undercling out a flake, then work your way up to a roof (heady). Punch in good gear, and climb slightly left towards a short finger crack.  One last steep bulge deposits you at a bolted anchor.

It is possible to traverse left from

Ddong Chim!

to set up a TR on Tickle My Blossom before committing to a lead if you wish.

This is a top rope variation to "

Reef On It

!". Fun technical moves through smooth rock lead to a pocket and undercling. Move up from the undercling and find good crimps and jugs to pull the roof. Move up and follow nice jugs similar to "

Reef On It

!".

The name says it all.  This was the route that initially caught my eye and remains as one of the best in the park!  Bouldery and sustained is the name of the game.

Boulder your way through a roof past 4 bolts eventually gaining a finger crack that peters out just below the anchor. One more bolt protects the slabby finale.

Begin at a block that doesn't appear to be very attached to the wall. Don't be afraid to reef on it though, the block has proven to be quite solid. Make bouldery moves up to a good jug, and get your first clip. Some may appreciate a stick clip, but the route has been climbed numerous times without one. Continue up slightly slabby terrain for two more clips then tackle the gently overhanging headwall. Move through the crux pulling on good jugs until the angle lessens once again and you find yourself at the anchors.

This can be climbed 2 ways: staying left of the bolts, at the bulge, follow crappy crack for a few moves, 5.10-, or going directly over the bulge, 5.10d.

This is not my route, but I'm collecting the whole set.  The 1st bolt is a ways up, but the climbing is 5.5. We placed a small cam between this and the next bolt.  There was a bail loop off the 4th bolt.  I got a smallish wire in between it and the 5th bolt.  There is interesting climbing around up there.  It seemed more like 5.9+ and perhaps PG-13 (Maybe it was the rain, but I thought I was on Crushing My Gear to Climb.). See Monty's comment.)

See what you think.

This is the freebie linkup of

Muricuh

into the final bits of

Welcome to Staunton

with some new territory in between. It is somewhat contrived, but if you don't cheat yourself and you stay in the right seam until it is impossible to go any further, this route has some awesome climbing on it!  Probably the pumpiest of the 3 12's.

Begin on

Muricuh

, pull the crux roof, and clip the 5th bolt, then begin angling up and left up the seam just right of

Welcome to Staunton

.  Follow this past some pumpy 11+ climbing until it is logical to step left and finish on

Welcome to Staunton.

I am adding this climb to complete the set and to add info. Climb into a left-facing corner onto a small pedestal, then continue to follow the corner and up the face and over the bulge.

The route is a bit dirty, but the pro is there when you need it. This makes a good beginner lead. It gets sun in the afternoon. You can also make it a short top rope by setting a directional below the bulge after anchoring in at

Chalk Dust Torture

.

Start as for

Muricuh

, but immediately traverse hard right to gain bolts that lead you up a steep seam. Continue up the seam and navigate past a roof.  The climbing on this line is a lot different than any of the other lines in the Tan Corridor, and it will only get better as it cleans up. I'll post it as 11a, but I could see it settling in a little lower. Find ouf for yourself and enjoy!

This doesn't really need a big description.  I did it and think it ought to be in the digital record.  I don't have a stick, but others may wish one?  It is pretty cool.

Climb nice jugs to an low ledge and the first clip. Stand up on the ledge and make thin but well protected moves through a headwall and a devious crux. Figure out the crux and pull up onto a sloping ledge. Move up through easier terrain to a another headwall and a fun crux with interesting incut holds. Move up onto the low angle slab that guards the anchors. This has fun, thoughtful climbing.

Climb into a shallow dihedral formed by a flake, and ascend a vertical, technical face with many sidepulls and crimps. Find your way onto the slab above, and tackle a bulge which leads to more slab and a final headwall.

Once you've climbed Jerry, consider taking a toprope spin on the Gerald variation. Start as with Jerry, but cruise out left at the top of the flake, and follow leftward-slashing features through the opening headwall, rejoining Jerry on the slab. This variation goes at around 5.11.

God Bless 'Muricuh.  The name was inspired by a truly 'murican conversation I heard at a donut shop the morning of the FA.

Climb sidepulls and jugs to a roof, then levitate to the anchor.

Start right of large boulder, follow a black streak, climb up a featured face to a bulge, then make some slab moves to steep upper headwall crux. The guide says do a big toss to a big jug, (more like a dead point to a pocket) but the lower part of the hold is sloper. There is a pocket above it.

Climb the first four bolts of

The Altruist

(through all the hardest climbing) till level with fifth bolt at the "white jug," then step right to climb the finger-crack finish of

Welcome to Staunton

. Gear from Metolius #1 (blue) up to #1 Camalot. RPs and stoppers may be helpful, but I did it on all cams.

This is a fun and pumpy link-up, and it is fun if you like a mix of sport and trad.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Tan Corridor