Crux liebacking leads to easier moves above.  You can place gear, but the flake feels dangerously loose - thus the "R" rating.

Glumpies

Ungawaa

Grape Nuts, Why Not?

Lay Back and Enjoy It (aka A Dog In The Ass)

House Of The Homeless

Grit Roof

This airy and exciting routes liebacks the short but exposed arete past two bolts to a bolted anchor at the top. Short, technical and a surprisingly fun diversion. Two stars out of five.

Start on rotten ledges and climb a right-slanting crack system.  A poorly protected move takes you up to some finger jams and protection.  Higher up, take care to get in some protection (difficult to place and not so great) for a crux hand traverse.  Good holds await you at the end of the hand traverse.

This climb is essentially a direct start to the route

House Of The Homeless

that joins that route at it's second bolt.

Start down and right from House Of The Homeless and lieback the edge of a wide crack to reach a high first bolt which protects more liebacking along the edge of the narrowing crack (crux) to reach a second bolt. Higher, join House Of The Homeless for it's near-vertical crux and shared anchors with that route.

Originally lead without the lower two bolts and later climbed with the added bolts thinking it was a first ascent. The climbing is fun, even if a little a little contrived, but overall a good addition to the area for the sport climbing crowd. One star out of five.

Down and right from

Grit Roof

, the obvious roof crack visible from the parking area, is this short fun face.

Climb steep, featured rock to a high first bolt and then move right and up the steep, frictiony face past two more bolts [hangers replaced 2/16/01 - ed.] to an anchor atop a sloping ramp. Rap or downclimb the ramp (to the climber's left) back to the base.

A quick hit if in the area and a good warm-up route to do in between some of the nearby classics. One star out of five.

Start in a right-facing corner to approach the roof crack, plug in a piece or two under the roof and turn the lip where the crack quickly widens (this is where the big cam will come in handy). A large flake broke off several years ago and has bumped the grade up from it's previous rating (5.10c).

A recommended route for the area that merits three stars out of five.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Horror Rock - South & East Faces