Start to the left of the corner with a tree to the climber's right (edit: said tree has been cut down).  Find some interesting finger jams in the dihedral, where the crux comes early.  Then look for holds out right on the arête and go straight up on slightly easier face climbing with the tree behind you.

Finger Games

Chainsaw massacre

Surprise Ending

Fortress Chimney

Petes face

Dusty Problem

Unnamed Scramble

A Fool and Their Beer Are Soon Parted

Five feet left of finger games work the red dihedral through a series of crimps to glory holds to the top. Easier variation to the right once above the dihedral.

Follow the main crack up the nose and the face to its left.  Easy climbing/good pro until the crack ends and you find the surprise ending.  Head into the crux with gear just below foot level in a nice horizontal crack.  Watch out for the rocks behind you if you fall.

Right up the wide crack north of Finger Games.  Take a big piece or two for the bottom section if you lead it.  Very short.

Crux is first couple moves. Good short climb

Start up the crack with a big roof overhead.  Good holds will keep the grade in check but it is roofy for a 5.6.  Finish as desired, but whatever you choose expect to find plenty of lichen and dust.

Easy crack/scramble between Fingers Games and Fortress Chimney.

A series of roofs and overhangs for a pump-tastic climb. Start directly beneath the first roof and follow the dihedral up to the roof. Circumvent the first roof with the help of a ledge and chalk up for a second roof. Another small ledge and some fancy footwork bring you to the crux halfway up the climb. Figure out the beta to circumvent the final small overhang and celebrate with an easy final 10 feet!

The first formation of the Mini Fortress Area (when approaching from the south) is First Fortress. It can be spotted by finding the series of roofs near the ground and smaller overhangs partway up, with a couple of fine looking finger cracks in the 15 ft dihedrals. Expect to have the place to yourself. I've never seen anyone else climbing here. There are some great climbs but also a few drawbacks. Cactus are plentiful, and there's little shade. But there are some nice climbs worth doing.

Description

Protection

Routes in First Fortress