Water ice is not the most common commodity in SoCal. Thus, some of us wander around seemingly aimlessly looking for whatever we can find. BP Falls is a really reliable spot. Good fun climbing, as long as the temps are low. The ice can sometimes have a good amount of water running underneath it.

Straight up provides the best ice. Going slightly left provides some easy mixed on decent enough rock.

There are a couple of steps of ice on the approach. The rest is an easy snow climb.

BP Falls

NE Face Routes

This page covers all routes on this face, as they are all quite similar. The rating posted is general, meaning they can vary a bit, but are mostly steep snow. Venturing onto steeper ground brings steeper snow, 4th-5th class crappy rock frozen in place, alpine ice, or anything in between. Conditions vary wildly.

Hike in from Vincent Gap on the fire road heading south to Bighorn Mine. You'll hike in for 10-15min until you arrive at the base of a very big and obvious couloir. The road is washed out here (unless they fixed it). Go up. Stop when you run out of up. Best plan is to go wherever conditions look best.

Further right is steep snow, slightly less steep in areas (like 40 degrees or whatever, I'm not a scientist, just a climber). Left offers more rock, mostly terrible of course, but sometimes you can climb on it without killing anyone. Either way, plan your line based on protection from falling rocks.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mount Baden Powell