A long and fun romp up some excellent granite slabs! This route was a ten year labor of love for Jeff and Rick and the quality of the climb is a testament of that effort! Get on it!

Pitch 1-5: Follow bolt lines up to the large ledge with big pine tree on left side at the top of pitch 5. There is a few short 5.4 sections but most of it is 5.0-5.2. You can just barely link pitch 3&4 with a full 70 meters. Pitch 5 has two variations, one straight up to pine, the other heads right to the ledge just left of where you’ll find the belay anchor for pitch 6. Most parties will want to simul these first 5 pitches.

Pitch 6: Traverse right and up over thin smear slabs. 5.7-5.8 12 draws

Pitch 7: Head out right toward thin finger crack in overhanging slab. Step over and up left and smear slab with very little for holds. 5.9/10a 12 draws

Pitch 8: Starts on left side of ledge up some layback blocks. 9/10a 12 draws

Pitch 9: Move out left and step out over corner onto slab. Look for green bolts and fixed hook. Head up thru dirty but easy terrain. 5.7 8 draws

Pitch 10: Climb tiered flakes up and left with thin layback cracks and very delicate smearing between flakes. Proceed up very thin finger tip flake crack. Very fun .9/10 13 draws

Pitch 11: Starts in mostly open book corner and then traverse out right. Very thin and mostly smearing and stemming open book. Have to cross a bush to reach right upper bolt, then head left to anchor. .9/10 8 draws.

Pitch 12: The rappel station for pitch is 10 meters above the belay. The pitch is 40 meters. Nice hand jam crack mid route, then finish on upper slab. 5.4 12 draws

Pitch 13: Walk up blank slab with very good friction to next anchor. 5.0 10 draws

Pitch 14: Climb blocks then move out on slab left. 5.4 10 draws

Pitch 15: Traverse straight left on ledge a few bolts before moving up to final anchor. 5.4 8 draws

Decent:

70m rope is recommended, but a 60m will make it as well with a bit of stretch. You'll need two ropes to rap the lower slab (first 5 pitches).

Rap the route following bolt lines back down. Route meanders around large overhangs with brushy ledges that prevent a two rope rappel until you reach the lower slab. Tie on the other rope there, as you can not rap this section without it. It is also possible to walk off climbers right (West) once on the lower slabs.

The Lion King

Urban Refugee

The Gateway

White Slabbath

The Hansen Project

Excellent rock that takes solid gear with a few run outs for good measure. If the section under the roof is wet expect 5.10.

This 2 pitch, mixed protection route is meant to be a  gateway For adventures above it.

Pitch 1 - Traditional gear protects the bottom and top of this pitch, the top being a short, but stellar hidden chimney you cannot see from the base of the route. Thoughtful slab climbing will get you there. 5.8 , 90 feet

Pitch 2 - up the slab to a 2 bolt anchor above the last ledge. 5.5 , 100+ feet

If rappelling down from the second pitch, a 70m rope still dies not reach the set of anchors above pitch 1. You'll have to walk across the slabby ledge that separates the 2 pitches. Knot the ends of your rope.

2 bolt anchor atop the chimney

White Slabbath climbs the upper half of the left side of the dome, south of Lions creek.

The climb could be accessed via two ways, only one has been done at the time of this post. The FA was done by first climbing The Gateway (2 pitch route) and then scrambling up and over to WS. See photo below. This route could be climbed in as little as 3 pitches, or as many 6 (not counting pitches of climbs below).

70 m rope required!

P1 - An optional short pitch at the end of the scramble. Decide when to rope up as you leave the low angle slabs and alders, heading for the first bolted anchor of WS. A few pieces of protection are available. 5.6

P2 - slab crux. Twin seems, and 3 bolts, provide just enough to keep the slab moderate as you start this pitch. Follow the undercling flake out right and turn the corner, now seeing the bulk of the route. Climb the large lie back corner, protected by gear l, until making the rightward traverse across the slab as you approach the anchor. 5.9 - 100 feet

P3 - the first of two pitches climbing the crack that splits the white slab. A seem (1 bolt) turns to a widening finger crack and continues as such, finally reaching thin hands before the anchor. 5.7 - 100 feet

P4 - follow the now hand sized crack up and through the bulge to belay ledge. This pitch could easily be linked with pitch 3 for a mega pitch up the entire crack splitting the slab. Call dibs now! 5.5 - 50 feet

P5 - 4th class with little protection available.100 ft.

P6 -4th class with little protection. Easily linked With p5

There are two descent options. The entire route/approach could be rappelled and reversed. The other option (if you leave nothing at the base) is to rap towards the gulley from the lowest bolted anchor of WS. A hidden two bolt anchor over near the gulley allows you to rappel into it and you could scramble down the gulley, beware of a few cruxes here as well.

ON LION'S CREEK NORTH DOME: The first two pitches are from an existing route of which the name is unknown as well as the name of the guy who put it up. I have met him but can't remember his name.  The next 4 pitches are a new variation to what he put up several years ago. The crux of the route is the end of pitch one and through pitch two.

Approach:  Park at the upper parking lot and look up at the large wall to the north with the large overhanging prow on it's left side.  This is the Lion's Creek North Dome.  Down and right of the prow there are two large flake/cracks next to each other that run vertically up the face.  The flake/crack running to the right is the first pitch.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lion's Creek