An alternate finish to Brown Sugar, this route starts at the end of pitch 5 of “Brown Sugar.” It offers spectacular exposure from high on the Rolling Stone Wall.

P1) Beginning after pitch 5 of "Brown Sugar", move off the ledge, traversing left past bolts above the lip of the orange

overhang. Belay at an anchor in a gully that is not visible from below.

P2) Continue up easier rock past some bolts to the trees.

Rappel “Sticky Fingers” with 2 ropes

Beta provided by Kurt Hicks

Mick's Lips

Sticky Fingers

35 Miles Per Hour

Head Trip

Emotional Rescue

Brown Sugar

Mickey Mantle Mantra

Heart of Stone

If climbing all of Brown Sugar scares you or you don't have the whole day to dedicate, this is an easy way to escape from the first pitch.

Start as for Brown Sugar. About 2/3 the way up pitch 1, escape from the friction slab by hand traversing right on a ledge, past a bolt, to a belay. Scramble off to climber’s right and down to the Road Warrior Area. Alternately, rappel off a block back to the highway.

(Route Beta from Kurt Hicks)

Probably the best route on the Rolling Stone Wall, even though it suffers from having all ¼ bolts.

P1) Climb the green slab above to an anchor on a grassy ledge.  25M.

P2) Lead directly up off the ledge, then right on huge knobs for 50 of unprotected 5.6 slab climbing to reach a slanting crack in a U-shaped groove.  Follow bolts after the crack to a semi-hanging anchor.

P3) More steep friction climbing in water-worn grooves leads to the last anchor.

Rappel the route with 2 ropes.

This is a direct start to the Bastille Wall that begins between the road curve sign and a pine tree. Unfortunately, this route has been overgrown since the first ascent and needs to be reclaimed. Scout the bolt locations before starting!

P1) Scratch up the slab, pull the roof at a bolt, and continue up to a ledge with

bolts.

P2) Move right into a groove, following bolts to a ledge.

P3) Go left past some boulders to a belay at a tree.

Walk off left or continue up Bastille Wall.

(above information is from Kurt Hicks)

A play on words, this route was the scene of a very runout first ascent when the unknowing FA party started up an unfinished line and ran out the last two pitches without any of the current protection bolts!

P1)  Smear, edge and mantle past six widely spaced bolts to an anchor on a large knob.

P2 & 3) Follow the crest of the rib, past bolts, to the top.

Rappel the route or walk off to climbers right.

A very enjoyable route--this is crag classic that features great climbing, good exposure, and clean rock throughout!  Walk about 100 right of the road curve sign to the base of a dark groove.

P1) Start in the gully with a hand crack in it.  Continue up the obvious narrow brown streak of clean rock to an anchor.

P2) Continue up the brown rock to an anchor, occasionally clipping bolts.

P3) Another pitch on brown rock leads to an anchor.

P4) Trend right into a raspberry-filled gully and up to a ledge with a small bush and a belay station.  It is possible to do two double rope rappels from here to the ground using a tree for the second rappel.

P5) Traverse under the orange overhang to a belay on a boulder covered ledge.

P6-7) Head up and right to the top, following the bolts.

Rappel Sticky Fingers with 2 ropes.

P1) Steep entry moves past a bolt turn to fun slab climbing and a hanging anchor.  30M

P2)  Continue up the slab (5.9+) to a steep wall.  A fixed piton protects the steep moves before more bolts lead right to a rap anchor on a ledge.  30M

Rappel the route with one rope.  Knot the ends of your rope.

P1) Aim for the 5-6” crack about 75’ up. Climb dirty ledges and aid (A0, probably could go free) over the narrowest part of the overhang. Belay from 2 bolts on top of a dirty overhang.

P2) Climb up clean rock around a dark blocky roof to a ledge.

P3) Go straight up past a few bolts to the higher of two ledges. This will position you directly below the dark overhang.

P4) Continue around the overhang on the right to the top. Walk off left after pitch three or top out and rappel “Sticky Fingers.”

(Information credit: Kurt Hicks)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Rolling Stone Wall