The grantite on this route is beautiful, the sequence is fun and it is well protected. This is definitely one of my favorite warm up routes on the Ledge Wall. Don't miss this climb! (This would also make a good first lead for a competant climber, all of the holds to clip off of are bomber.)

Freely Given

The Dance

Wilma

Distractions

Tree Crack

Darcy's Law aka Rock of Ages

Nubbins

Caveman

Folk Dance

Rock Whoopi

Open Book Direct

Shark's Tooth

McJugs

McMantle

The Great Controversy

Cavity Nester

A very good first lead for a strong top roper. Also a fun warm up, the crux is pretty much the first 2 moves, the rest of it is a cake walk.

A delicately thin slab requiring precision footwork and proper breath holding technique.

Just to the right of Rock Whoopi (5.7) lots of big features. This route is also a fun top rope. The anchors can be reached easily by going up the trail to the right of the route.

Climb the blocky ramp to the left of the obvious crack, using said crack for pro.  At the roof/ledge, either go straight up (5.7) through a shallow left-facing dihedral, OR go left along the ledge and then back right along the huge ramp to the top.

This is the crack that coincides with the start of The Great Controversy. The initial starting position for the 2 routes is the same.

Start in under the alcove as for The Great Controversy but follow the overhanging hand crack that widens gradually to #5 and #6 BD size through a short horizontal roof section. Once the horizontal section is surmounted, easier climbing leads to the top.

This great toprope climbs the thin face to the right of Open Book (using the same anchors).  The crux is down low, but fun sequences continue to the top.

Rap from the Tree Route staples and hang Top Rope Draws on the chains that are just above the tree stump, about 30 feet down from the top.  Pleasant face climbing underneath the tree keeping left of the edge of the Tree Crack Route

This route is on the rock to the far left of the lower ledge. I believe it is the only bolted route on this particular rock.

The crux is definitely at the top.

5 bolts to HA.

Climb up the obvious right-facing corner in the center of the cliff through some blocky overhangs.

Pretty cool moves and decent protection.  Short.

Climb straight up the face and traverse left (the crus) to a "shark tooth" like feature

This climb starts at the base of the arete for Great Controversy.  Climb up and left following the sloping ramp.  Climbing isn't too hard but it does feel a little awkward.  Mantle the famous ledge and then thin climbing leads to anchors.

The Climber's Guide to North Idaho gives this climb an 5.11a rating which is very soft in my opinion.  This route is just left of McJugs.  It actually meets up with McJugs after at the 3rd bolt.  Climb up the thin face to the namesake ledge.  Mantle over ledge and up thin face to anchors above.

This is a pumpy endeavor after the first bolt. It starts in the crack system below, but the crux is pulling your butt over the obvious roof. =) This involves a sweet heelhook and a series of crimps once over the top.

One note: If you are attempting to toprope this route, be careful of your rope snagging on the third bolt as you pull over the roof!

Climbs directl up the face to the tip of a left pointing roof

Description

Protection

Routes in Lower Ledge Area