nice route. way better than it looks. starts up a somewhat broken up looking crack, over a slight bulge to a dirty ledge. go thru or around the ledge then into a stellar splitter in a right facing corner to a chimney with a nice thin crack for pro. great anchors and ledge to belay from. really good route but be cautious of loose rock. it is possible to climb the notovitch codex to the ledge and traverse over to S=k log W from there, avoiding the lower section.

S=k log W

Adam-Ondi-Ahman

The Notovitch Codex

Tjurunga

Spear of Destiny

Terma

Qebehsenuef

Climb the big chimney between the tower and main wall with crazy body bridge and stem moves.  Clean, classic, great fun. Crux seems to be at the last bolt leaving the wall and getting on to the tower. All day shade. Easy to top rope after you get a rope up. Comfortable belay. Must do tower and minimum gear is going to make this one a favorite.

Follow obvious splitter up the river facing side of the fallen block that Tjurunga climbs. Starts offwidth and slowly works its way to less than tips. There are many face holds that make this crack much easier than if you were to only climb the crack system itself.

Start in the offwidth with a flake and work your way up solid jams and brittle feet until you get into great fist jams that slowly work into hands. When the crack tightens down to tight hands you have to a short well protected traverse with okay holds and no feet. Look for the hidden holds in the pod and pull up to the finger crack. climb balancy moves until you get to the less than tips crack and can grab the arete on the left. There are several options at this point as to what way to go. Several more moves gains the anchor. If you want there is a hidden bolt on the back side of the capstone above the anchor that gains access to the summit cap.

climb up the clean splitter that leads you up and right into a dirt band (thats not really that dirty), mantle up and left and head behind a big chock stone, then up to the anchor. fun route. pros up well. as with all newer routes, be aware of the possibility of loose rock.

Start on left of spire. Tunnel behind and up chimney to large block. Tunnel under (serious drag)straight up nice cracks and steps up to summit anchors. I untied at block and threw my rope over it and retied then went up. Great fun, mini adventure. some evidence of human traffic to sub summit so not certain on f/a. We installed bomber 1/2 inch anchors. Rappel off front side with single 70.

P1

Face climb following bolt line passing rap station. Clip one more bolt to great spacious belay ledge with a bomber two-bolt belay station. 5.8, 11 bolts, 110 feet.

P2

Up, then left, pull a fun mantle, then back right to a huge belay ledge with a rap/belay station with 3 bomber bolts. Long draws on bolts #3, (optional long on bolt #4) and bolt #5 to reduce drag. 5.8, 8 bolts, 110 feet.

P3

Climb up following the crack line. Cut left into the corner  take that to the top. Good tree on top and one belay bolt. Rap station is obvious on the way up, just below the lip of the summit. Standard rack, 5.9, 110 feet.

crux is pulling around and stepping up between bolt one and two. very well protected with bomber new bolts. anchors on top are 3 new bolts with chain.  capstone rock quality is good to poor. as always, use caution and check anchors. small climb with a big fun rap. worth it for the rap and photo op with the tower, river and mountains all in the shot.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Utopia