An unheralded classic, Wildfire is arguably one of the crown jewels of the San Juan Range. With the exception of the short fifth pitch, this route is consistent quality rock and in a pristine, idyllic setting. It is shady until about 2 or 3pm in late summer, but the fourth pitch is shady all day.

P1: Follow pockets and jugs up to a small ledge beneath a leaning corner. Bullet rock, a great warm-up. 7ish bolts; 5.10a/b, 80'.

P2: Stem up to a delicate clip and make committing moves up and left (11a) past the bulge, and onto a 5.10 face, 8 bolts to a nice ledge.

P1+P2 can be linked with a 60m and creates an excellent long pitch.

P3: the steep crux pitch. The rock changes a bit here and climbs like limestone. Sustained 11/11+ climbing over a bulge and through sequential pockets lead to mediocre stem rests and a difficult roof. Get creative. Pull into a hanging corner and belay. This pitch is likely to seep early season, 9 bolts, 80'.

P4: the money pitch! Traverse right out over the void, staying right of the bolt line, reaching insanely exposed arete climbing! Belay at the top of the arete at a nice stance, 10+, 95', 9 bolts.

P3+P4 could be linked into a absolutely MEGA pitch, but bring plenty of long runners.

P5: the cool down? This is a short 5.8 pitch, maybe not worth doing, since it doesn't top out, but it only leads to a choss band below the top of the wall, 4 bolts?

P4+P5 are easily linked.

Rap the route with a single 60m, but tie knots!

Linking

Oz

and Wildfire together (especially linking pitches into 200' leads) is easily one of the best climbing days I've ever had. Highly recommended.

Wildfire

Power Tools Are People Too

Oz has steep and pumpy climbing on pockets and cobbles.

Pitch 1: 5.10, 9 bolts to an anchor on a big ledge, 95',

Pitch 2: 5.10-, 8 bolts to an anchor on a smaller ledge, 90'.

Pitch 3: The crux is right past the anchor, climb a steep face to an anchor, 8 bolts, 90'.

Pitch 4: 5.10+, 8 bolts to the top, 90'.

Rappel the route.  You can make it to the top of the first pitch in one rappel with two 60 meter ropes.  This is a great climb that will leave you pumped.

Climb the right side of an unmistakable, left facing, open-book corner on a patina/quartz covered face with unique rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wasatch Mountain Walls