A short slanting hand crack at the base of the Y Crack.

* No record of any name for this climb.

Route 56

The 5.11 Problem

The Flake

Hairy Airy

The Y Crack

Hairy Airy Direct Start

Butthole Express

Chimney

Who would have guessed that this is the namesake route for this area.  Easily identified on the approach, this great climb involves a thin crack start to a crux move about a third of the way up, where an arching crack meets on the left.  Liebacking the OW portion until the Y choice is made, adds to the dimension of moves on this route.  Near the top, either L/R finish goes the same, but going right adds a bit of exposure.  Highly Recomended

This climb is between Butthole Express and the Y Crack.  There is nice arching undercling extending left from the Y Crack.  This problem ascends the face that is the leftmost under this undercling and mantling over.  One can take the undercling over to the Y crack for fun.  Aftermoves go easy via a right finger crack.

Start as for Hairy Airy, but instead of traversing right at the slanting crack continue to the top and the anchors.

This fun route starts in a crack just a few feet right of the Chimney.  Take this up to a right slanting crack and traverse over to gain a jug and stand up.  From here, follow the arching corner of the rock, liebacking to the right.  The crux comes here, afterwhich a super bomber-big jug comes up, where one can do an ultra-photogenic one-handed hang.  Easy mantel of the top.  Highly recommended.

This is the tenuous direct start stepping right off of the beginning flake of HA to clip a bolt and fire a couple fun hard moves.

This is the first route encountered at the Y Crack Area.  It is a four bolt face route that ascends a short series of low angle bulges.  Although the crux is mantling over the first bolt, the name comes from the handholds thereafter.

Right and around the corner of the Y crack is this obvious chimney.  It is often done as a solo, but can be set-up as a TR as bolts/rings are at the top.  The crux involves grabbing a horn and stepping out for an exposed move to gain the top.  Fun

Description

Protection

Routes in The Y Crack Area