Begin on the right side of the boulder with a positive right hand dish-like pinch below the upper lip and a left crimp on the handprinted cement. Make a move to the lip, and traverse slopes to top out on the far left side of the boulder. **SDS (V5-6): Starts sitting at the base of the arete. 

  Number 2

Tall Tales

Mac Dre

Brut

Civil War

Endors Toi

Slice

Southern Blockade

The Brute

Faking it on the Regular

Start with both hands on a big sloping undercling rail system in the center of the boulder. Make a couple of tough moves to establish on the lip and top out straight up. 

  Number 1

Basically, climb the brute but don't use the supporting boulder for feet.  This was first climbed by a visiting climber who had no idea what it was, or that the supporting boulder was on, then cranked it out anyways.  Turns out, it's pretty neat this way!  

 Key beta is toehooks up and left on the chalky flat hold deep in there.  After some hard initial moves, techy toe hooks, a heel hook, and a sweet throw to pinch the left arete, it finishes the same as the brute.

From a left undercling and a right hand jug, heel-hook interesting features to a difficult top out. 

  Number 4

Begin on two underclings and quest directly up the clean slab using some of the coolest grips in the gulch. Granite tufas, palm presses and schmears will take you to the top. One of the best easy boulders in the gulch. 

 There is a right and left variation that go at about the same grade. 

This boulder is hidden in some trees just downstream from The Brute. SDS at the bottom of the refrigerator-like face and find good beta to make it easier.  

  Number 5

SDS on jugs and climb the left side of the overhang just before Civil War in the wash.

Aptly named, this problem starts on underclings far back under the boulder. The supporting boulder is on for feet at the start. Wrestle your way to a big horn out left. Good technique softens the blows.  

  Number 3

A short, but fun enough lowball that climbs the overhanging face under where civil war tops out.  Start right hand on a nice pinch in the orange rock directly under the crack/groove on the face above, left hand on an undercling/flipped sidepull, feet out right a bit.  Make a big slap up to the slopey lip, match the lip and either move out left for a couple more fun but contrived sloper moves and a hard topout or swoop right to the jug and an easy topout.

The Dragons Den consists of four boulders split between the creek. To get there, take the trail (across the wash from Lucky's Boulder) a few yards further down the streambed. The trail leads you next to the top of Tall Tales, and Civil War can be seen straight ahead and right.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Dragon's Den