This variation climbs the best part of Quaking Oats (which is a fun crack/stemming corner) then moves right and climbs the face of a pillar past 2 bolts to the top. This exposed and exciting finish, combined with the lower crack/corner, makes for a great pitch.

Descent: scramble/downclimb right (south) with a bit of class 4.

Trix

Quaking Oats

Coco Puff

Oat Cuisine

Buckwheat

Alfalfa

Cereal Killer

Frosted Flakes

This is on a low, brown buttress at the far right of the west-side of  Cereal Rock.

On the left-side, climb to an alcove, move right and then up past a bolt.

Face climb into a right-facing corner, follow this up to a low-angle gully/trough that leads to the top.

Descend by downclimbing/scrambling off to the right (south). A bit of class 4.

This slightly overhanging sport climb is located on the Northeast Face. If you utilize all the stemming posibilities of the lower section, the route is 5.10b. If you avoid the stemming and climb the wall directly, the bottom section is 5.11b.

Although this is a tightly bolted sport route, beware that if you blow some of the clips, you may hit the adjacent ledge/wall...so to lead this one you should be solid at the grade!

Climb a left slanting thin crack/flake that passes over a bulge with somewhat poor protection.

Left crack up the tall narrow pillar in middle of the west face, to adjacent left of Quaking Oats.  Sustained awkward sketchiness up thru the low crux.

Some might balk at the sound of that.  But def interesting moves.  The black juggy portion just above the crux, where you really want to crank down on, it moves.  So crank down, not out.  Quaking Oats finishes the same as Alfalfa.

Climb steep flakes to start (maybe 5.7?) then move right to a vertical crack which peters out. An easy but unprotected face takes you to the top.

Climb flakes up to a steep slab with 3 bolts, then climb over a bulge past another bolt to an easier face to the top.

This climb is very well protected and a good choice if you're breaking into the 10+ grade or working on redpointing a 10+.

At the first bolt you can climb straight up (10+) or move right and back left (5.9). The moves past the second and third bolts are intricate and crimpy (10+), but you're very well protected. The bulge at the fourth bolt and the upper face are relatively easy.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cereal Rock