This route is a variation of Crack Dream.

Start 6ft right of crack dream (AKA Edge to a Smear) up a small but visible spine that leads to a nice plate. Climb till your about 20-25ft up then transfer to Crack Dream right below the crux (The sharp right in crack).

Half face, Half crack, All fun.

Cracker Dream

Crack Dream

Edge to a Smear

Scorpion Crack

Vertical Beach

Climb the obvious zig-zag crack system, mostly hands, which splits the west face of the crag. Gear belay and walk off.

Start up a thin crack/seam to reach a prominent plate (the edge) and then smear your way up the the steep slab above.

No idea what the original name for the route is. Maybe it hasn't been named? Please tell me.

Anywho, 5.9ish if I remember correctly. Named for the scorpion I found when I pried a loose flake off partway up. Loose rock, kinda crummy pro, kinda awkward.

Another route I've entered to which I know very little. I onsighted it with no knowledge of prior ascents. Please leave information in the comments if you know the name and history of this crack.

Starts off easy enough with first pro 15ft or so up. Black rock is slippery, light rock is crumbly. Crack widens in spots. Good pro (#3) near the crux, so it's got that going for it. Liebacked the right side of the crack while smearing on ball bearings on the left. Very tiring for my fat weekend ass. .10a or less, probably less if you climb more often than I (maybe twice a month now).

I'd avoid it.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lightning Bolt Crag