Start up a right leaning large flake and into the off-width crack with a smaller crack next to it for protection. The crux comes high after the corner widens.

Schools Out

Labyrinth

Dunce Cap

Homecoming Queen

Doorknob People

Minotaur

Avant Garde

Heart Throb

Dancing Hearts

Prom Night

A Young Person Named Sam

Block Party

Kindergrad

Global Motion

Bad Manners

Rage

Boys Visit Charm School

Virgin Slayer

Slam Dance

Splash

Big Man on Campus

Deep Sleep

Chalkboard

Graduation Day

Theseus

A great route that only adds value to setting up the anchor on the Minotaur.  Due to the swing, even the TR has an air of intimidation.  Clipping a piece or two along the way, even for the toprope, isn't a bad idea.     Contrary to appearances, the moves aren't too bad until you get to where it meets up with Minotaur.  At that point, you run into a funky exit from the roof.  Go for it!  Highly recommended.

Start up Rage, then move right up the face holds. Would be very challenging for a leader at the grade to adequately protect themself. The right sequence, holds, and pro are not immediately obvious.

Crux finish near the top, choose either crack. 

Just right of Prom Night the route starts with a short chimney in a corner that follows into a crack.  Fun little route

The first 5.11 at Smith, Minotaur is insecure and technical.  It starts with a low angle layback, and then gets a little funky with sloping holds, crappy feet, and a couple of long reaches.  As quickly as you hit the crux, it is over, and you finish in a wide crack and a corner seam above.   Watts gives it 2 stars, but I thought it was more fun than that, and really exciting for the history.

The crux section of this route constitutes one of the better thin finger cracks in the park.  It's overhanging, technical, and totally awesome.  It was really fun to tr solo, and I think it would make a great training route for someone who climbs 5.10 cracks, and would like to work some more advanced technique.     The downside, or upside, depending on your persuasion, is that it's fairly short (if the crux lasted for sixty feet, it'd easily be 5.13).  Above the overhanging fingers, the route gets a bit dirtier and much easier.

Start up a nice crack in a left facing corner below a large roof.  The second edition Watts guide describes this as a pleasant crack that most people climb to the bolt and lower from.  The original route continues by traversing left then up through steep blocky terrain.   

  Beyond the initial traverse, the climbing is 5.8-5.9 up to the blocks, then probably 5.10 or more to finish.  There is no 5.7 terrain above the traverse.

This route starts the same as Heart Throb until you reach the roof. At this point, clip the optional bolt and move into the crux shuffle right under the roof. The feet were probably once great but now the have rubbed those edges into a slick polished surface that makes the feet a little questionable. Move around the corner and try to avoid getting your rope eatan by the roof corner. Move left across the face to the left crack and top out. One bolt up top. Building an anchor is a little difficult but can be done.

A short boulder problem start (V0?) gains a large sloping ledge.  Once gaining the ledge climb the short dihedral using finger locks and some face holds.  Felt hard for 5.7...

A fun TR problem, a serious lead climb. Protection is sparse. boulder start with good pockets. crux is getting over the bulge about 10' off the ground. follow a leaning crack using jams to the top with a smaller crux for an exit move.

Another technical 5.10 in the Textbooks.  I thought the opening moves were totally vicious - getting over the mantel was pretty nasty, at least the way I did it.  Someone should comment if there's actually a 10b way of doing it.  It felt like I was doing something stupid (although it was really fun).   After that, the moves are good, with lots of edges and pockets.  Worthwhile both for the finish and for the tricky bulge at the start.

Start on a well protected ramp to a horn. Either round the horn or go straight up. You're already at the top. Either sling a couple trees at the top or build an anchor. Easiest way out of the textbooks and a great way to retrieve anchors left at the top. 

A corner crack with a few good jams and a few not so solid ones with a few face holds out to the side. Take the crack up to a small ledge and then work your way back left up easy blocks.

Climb a crack on the right side of a large flake in the corner, then ascend a steep gully to a large roof which you easily climb under to the left to a pair of bolts.

A shared start with Dunce Cap.  Start up face holds with good options for protection.  Place a piece in a horizontal crack and head out left into a flared crack and atop a block.

A short route with a tricky beginning. start from a boulder , face climb, pulling on small crimps until you hit a ledge. second half of climb is much easier.

Imposing roof, easiest route weasels awkwardly left to an exquisite hand/finger crack. Intimidating roof is worth the effort.

Chimney up the start to Doorknob People, then take a hard left at the horizontal crack, then finish up the groove to the top.

Fun, fairly straightforward 5.10 crack and face moves.  Just like any other basalt line, a nice opportunity to think about your feet. What else would you expect from a Textbooks 10c?  It's a bit dusty from lack of use, and doesn't have the history of Theseus or the Minotaur, but still recommended.   Watts describes loose block.  I tr soloed it, and never noticed anything too bad.  If it's still loose, you're, obviously, more likely to notice it on lead.

A flaring slot with crappy finger locks for the first twenty feet make this feel like it would fit in better in Yosemite than Smith.  I ended up knee scumming/chimneying to get through.  Really fun if you like that sort of thing.  The rest of the route is a walk.   Start behind a detached block, about twenty feet right of the Minotaur anchor.

A fun route, jams a locking hand crack in a shallow corner. Finesse a few face moves to the top.

Getting off the ground is a pain, but there are a few good moves following the start. The finish gets tougher, and there is no anchor at the top, so toprope is suggested. Don't mind the loose slab of rock stuck in the wall halfway up the face; it's not coming out of the wall.

Short route with medium-fun moves and decent rock.  Not the coolest 5.8 I've ever done, and currently it's got a lot of dirt on it. If you happen to be hanging out on the student wall, and you like 5.8, it wouldn't be a nightmare to climb this thing.   I think if it got cleaned up, it would be about ten times as fun.

Theseus, whose name fits with the mythic theme, was cutting edge when it was first done, almost forty years ago.  A fun finger crack leads to an easier step through and finish to the right.

Basalt. A pleasant place to develop crack climbing skills - most routes protect easy, but are short. Can be toproped. Good place to learn to place pro.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Textbooks