This route goes through the overhanging headwall 1/2 way up the Dicker's Peck instead of traversing around it as for the standard Route. This seemed 5.9 at the time, but that is compensating up and down to account for the footwear and lack of footwork used... On lead, I campused the headwall completely, statically hanging to check each hold before hauling on it, as there was a runout and a ledge... Peter was able to haul up a foot (hiking boot) and place it high for leverage, so obviously this was not necessary. Still, the juggy nature of the route gives itself to such climbing and is more direct a route.

North Face of Dicker's Peck

Dicker's Peck

North Face

Dicker's Peck, in the notch north of Navajo becomes visible as you hike up the Isabel Glacier trail.  You can reach the notch by any of several snow routes with Navajo Snowfield (45 degees) being the most direct.  To reach the notch without snow climbing use the East Ledges route on Apache between Navajo Snowfiend and Apache Couloir.  (provided the ledges route has melted out)

From the north side of the pinnacle climb about 40 feet to a ledge (easy) and step right to a short crack on the west side of the pinnacle.  Climb the crack (5.5) then pull over an easy overhang or go around it further to the right.  There is a scrambling route to the summit of Navajo, from which you can descend to Airplane gully.  The gully is pretty loose and has an old airplane wreck in it.  Airplane gully takes you back to the base of the snow climbs.  This is a great climb if you like easy rock in a very alpine setting.

From the notch north of Navajo (see Dicker's Peck for details), you can climb up Navajo's north face instead of using the scrambling route on the peaks west side (called west chimney). Head straight up easy rock for 100-200 feet. This is Class 4 - 5.0 and may not need a rope. Next climb an easy pitch (5.4 max) up towards the tan colored summit cliffs. Some scrambling takes you under the west side of the summit cliffs, and you have now rejoined the West Chimney scrambling route. An optional second pitch goes up an easy crack in the summit cliff (5.4) and goes right (piton) to avoid a large obstruction/overhang. The summit is then a short scramble away.

To descend, scramble SW, then either [descend] the West Chimney route back to the Dicker's Peck notch or scramble down to the east to Airplane gully. As a mountaineering route it's two stars, but the technical climbing only gets one.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Navajo Peak