Ascend 5 ft left of Big Balls through a notch in the roof (crux) to fun pumpy climbing below the anchors.  One bolt at the roof (use an extendable draw) and one bolt above, so bring some gear (small-medium cams)

Furnass

Discontinuance (Continuance post-rockfall)

Fortis

Furnasty

Galen's 10

Top Rope Face / Ascent Gully

Fat Bastard

Foops

Ne Plus Ultra

Angry Muppets

Big Balls

VROS Arête

I Love Big Jugs

I Want a Big Truck

Pure Energy

Send Town

McMurray must be Castrated

Watch your feet

Leading Should Feel This Way Alternate Finish

Leading Should Feel This Way

Phil’s new rope

Little Balls

Alternate finish to Leading Should Feel This Way, break right above the roof, following a few bolts to fixed anchors.

After the large block came off of Continuance (and other rockfall), this is the "new" route.  Since it has changed significantly, I felt it needed a new entry.  There are now 4 bolts.   

  Boulder up to the first bolt.  Getting up and out of this recess to the face above is really the crux now.  Climb straight up and a bit right on the face past more bolts.  Finish straight up to anchors.

This route pulls a small roof on good holds, and then you pull through another smaller roof on better holds.  Crux is puling the roof at the second bolt.  After the first roof you can take a rest on a ledge before finished the easier 5.8 climbing above.  This route is one of the must do's of the crag.

Start on Big Balls and climb up through the first 4 bolts. Once at the big ledge under the roof, move right and do what is essentially a roped V6 boulder problem through two more bolts on the roof. Currently two steel permadraws hanging from the bolts on the roof. I found it more enjoyable to top out and then walk off. If anyone has any more information on this route please add it. It's listed in the Eric Horst's guidebook and is a really enjoyable climb. I was surprised it wasn't on here

new line of bolts just R of Fortis.  similar crux at the first roof.  5.10-ish.  don't know equipper/FA info but we first noticed the bolts in Nov. 2014.  anchor is a couple feet R of Fortis anchors. 

  Easy climbing for twenty feet to the first roof. Pull the roof, and coast for another twenty feet before pulling a smaller roof before the anchors.

According to Rakkup this is the Boyscout ledge. You have to go to the up part of the crag following the trail. There are plenty of trees for setting the anchor. You will need a 60 metre static rope. 

The crux is pulling through the roof and finding the holds. This is a great route for new leaders. Intimidating (very short) roof with jug holds. Great 5.7 warm up. Clip 4 bolts on easy 5.4 climbing, then clip 1 more through the roof to the anchors. Last bolt can be hard to reach if you have short arms. 

Great route with two cruxes.  The first is pulling the small roof, don't worry though, they're jugs.  The roof ticks in at 5.9.  The second crux comes 15 feet above the roof, you just pick a crimp and go.  Other than that it's the typical Talking Head Wall route, easy climbing at the bottom with some pumpy moves up top.

This is the second route from the left at the Talking Headwall.  Start on the featured face and climb through a large overhang.  Beware of rope drag through the overhangs.  Use a longer sling on the last draw before the anchors, the biner can bind against the ledge and open the gate.

Climb the route just to the right of MCurry.  Be aware of one or two loose blocks along the way.  Aim for the right-hand notch at the top.

This route has a great start and finish.  Climb past three bolts to some 4th class terrain.  Clip another bolts and follow the left facing crack.  Pull the roof and the anchors will be awaiting you.  The holds for clipping the anchors aren't the greatest and can be dirty after it rains.

This is a pleasant little arête and left slanting ramp you'll encounter right after leaving the road at the first spot where the trail is directly below the rock. Up a slightly rounded arête on good holds, then up a low angle ramp to the left, and then step left and finish by wiggling/ pressing yourself up through a narrow slot to the trees at the top.  

  Careful of loose/broken rock above and right of the ramp.

Easy 5.6 climbing for the first three bolts leads to the 5.8 crux.  There is not a crux move, it is 25 feet of sustained climbing.  Great clipping holds for the next two bolts will get you to the anchors.

Easy scrambling to a overhanging roof crack.  This is more of a face climb though as there are jugs all around you.  There is really only 10 feet of actual climbing on this route, so unless you're an aspiring trad leader don't really waste your time.  Follow the crack up and stay left through the slabby jugs.

Bouldery start to the first bolt. Follow face holds through the second and third bolt. Make a very long reach and pull through to the fourth bolt. Softens up a bit after the fourth bolt to the anchors. Guidebook says 5.10d, area consensus is 5.10a.<iframe width="690" height="388" src="youtube.com/embed/fMNZo3NK-…; frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

5 bolts to chainsStart a little left of first bolt. Move up to a rail that goes up and right then up to first clip. Move left and up and make 2nd clip, then move straight up. It is also possible to traverse left, and then up. This is a little easier, and even better,you can find a good rest. But stay on route and keep the burn going. Find a stance and make 3rd clip, then climb crux.Follow 4 bolts to the final roof. Grab that jug and your going to send town. There is a 5th bolt above final roof, and anchors at the top. Fun and pumpy.To tope rope be sure to clip the rope to a draw on the 3rd or 4th bolt. You need to protect for the swing.

Scramble to the roof near the top.  Pull through the roof on good horizontals.  This route doesn't see a lot of traffic so beware of loose rock.  Clean route with a follower.

Good pro, loose rock in some places.  Probably been done before but didn’t see it listed.

This route climbs the large roof to the right side of the crag. Start at a very high first bolt (consider stick clipping, or placing a small cam). Clip the second bolt below the large roof (decking possibilities). Pull the roof using the small rail and some heel hooks. Clip the next bolt and shake out. Begin to follow the bolts slightly to the right and then left toward the anchors. Fight the pump through this section and find good rests for the run to the anchors. This route is the gem of the crag.

Follow a big crack on your right and good holds in front of you

This is a variation to Big Balls.  Climb past the same first three bolts as BB and then break left and up across easy fifth class terrain and finish through a small notch at the top (be careful of the rodent nest)

A small, very secluded crag right next to the road.  The cliff sees all of its sun in the early to late afternoon.  You will see shade the rest of the day.  The close vicinity to Passage Creek will offer you some chilly evenings, so this is a great summer crag.  Routes range from 5.7-5.10, and the quality ranges from "classic" to "don't waste your time".  Although this crag doesn't seem to get a lot of traffic it is often used for scout days and adventure camps.  When this happens you might as well begin the hike to Buzzard Rocks.  There are not enough climbs here to share with large parties. 

  All of these routes are also top-ropeable. If you follow the crag all the way to the end on the right, you will find a path that leads to the top. There are ample trees and rocks to set anchors. Use good judgment.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Talking Headwall