Climb "Crystal Calisthenics" to the ledge, then continue up the big left facing dihedral.

The Good Book

Hey McLeod, Get Off of My Ewe

Darva

Riding the Cotton Pony

Crystal Calisthenics

Near the center of The South Face of the upper summit, climb a crack, to the left of a black streak. Move right  past a bolt to a dihedral, Follow this to a ledge. Climb up and left past a bolt to a crack and the top.

This climb is located on the right side of the highest part of Saddle Rocks, just right of the start to The Good Book. This is an excellent and beautiful aid route and is great practice with RURPs/copperheads without seriously risking one's neck, because there are a few "chicken" bolts along the thin crack to safeguard against any super long falls. The route starts as an easy slab/apron (5.5, 1 bolt), then hits a head wall. A thin seam/crack runs the length of the head wall, but doesn't quite reach the slab. Aid off a second bolt, and ascend the thin crack on RURPs, beaks, and/or copperheads. This crack is supplemented with 3 "chicken" bolts, so you probably won't wet your pants on this section. Please leave the chicken bolts in place.

After awhile, the crack opens up to take RPs, TCUs, and stoppers. Rappel off one bolt and a runner around a horn (single 60 mm. rope, 100').

This sad climb goe up grainy, poor cracks and then up grainy loose face climbing. I don't normally like to give a climb "the bomb" but this one is deserving. I am sorry.

This is a good route, with only one really hard move past a bolt down low on the climb. The rest of the climb is 5.10-. This route climbs a very obvious orange stain left of the Good Book.

Description

Protection

Routes in Saddle Rocks - Cantle