A tall bolted route on the left middle section of Orangutan Buttress. A stiff start up a short shallow open book under the first bolt, followed by an interesting jaunt up the face. Three quarters of the way up the cliff is a roomy ledge with a pair of belay/rappel chains. From there, combine finesse and brute force to tackle the roof immediately off the deck - don't kick your ledge partners in the helmet - then haul over the bulge up the steep short second pitch to the top. If you're lucky you'll surprise a hiker around Cedar Overlook. 

  P1: 5.7, 7 bolts to anchor, ~80 feet.   P2: 5.9+, 4 bolts to anchor, ~30 feet. 

  From Nancy: "The first pitch is a 5.7, 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor and needs a 50m to rappel. The second pitch is 5.9+/10a 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor and needs a 70m to rappel from the top or 2 rappels with a 50m or 60m. This route is well protected and should not need a R rating. As far as the history goes, people have been climbing at RS since the 1940's and I'm sure at some point this line has been climbed, however there is no documented accent of the first pitch in any of the old guidebooks. The second pitch however, was a old top rope variation of orangutan rated 5.9+. "

Dirty Sanchez

Orangutan

The original of Orangutan continues to see little traffic. 

  P1: 45 feet, 5.3 R   P2: 30 feet, 5.8 PG 

  Starts in a 9' corner, 25 feet right of the Long Chimney on Open Face. Go up three ledges using easy rock, keeping right towards the end to belay. Pitch 2  keeps right and goes through the so-called "Crack of Doom."

Orangutan Buttress is between the large, low angled Open Face to its left, and the Great Zawn gully to its right. 

  Its older routes include Orangutan Traverse (V3), Dandy Line (5.8), Orangutan variations (to 5.9), and Super Slab (5.11a). 

Sim has bolted some sport lines here more recently. These include: 

  Dirty Sanchez 5.9+ G ~sport two pitches (5.7, 5.9+)****     Pete's Trepanation 5.7 G ~sport one pitch (35mtr top-rope)****

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in i. Orangutan Buttress