Climb past the initial slab to a ledge and the base of a smooth, undulating face where a few reachy moves gain an inobvious hold and the third bolt. Wander upwards to reach the crux, at the 7th bolt, which is bouldery and quite fun once you decipher the moves. Continue up easy face and finish with an interesting mantle onto a sandy ledge (whisk broom optional).

This climb is more enjoyable and interesting than it looks and is a good choice if looking to tick off something less popular and crowded.

Pleasure Dome

*Juggernaut

Scrawny, not Brawny

Chaste but Tasty

*White Heat

*Utopia

White Light

Lovely Lady

Groove Factor

Pity Committee

Grab them by the

Start at an obvious block; easy climbing up the block and ledges gains the first bolt, about 15' up. Interesting climbing up the shallow dihedral brings one to the crux passing the fourth bolt. Above, climb the arete past three more bolts to a bolted anchor with rap rings. Although mostly easy climbing with only a move or two at grade, this is a fun line on nice edges that will keep you guessing.

Due to rockfall this route no longer exists!

​​​​

Ignore the out of reach crimps at the first bolt and start about 5 feet to the right using fairly good holds as well as some creative footwork and body positioning. Past the 2nd bolt use small but positive edges to trend right on thin slab and then back left to utilize a large sidepull feature before topping out onto the anchor ledge.

More technical than strenuous this climb offers decent climbing which is unfortunately marred by the poor bolt placements; when in doubt stay to the right of the bolts.

Route climbs over a small roof down low at the third bolt on good holds, then the crux is encountered between the 4th and 6th bolts and involves some balancy moves on a couple of sloping, sidepull, manufactured crimps to a couple of good holds that you can clip the 5th bolt from, followed by extremely thin technical slab.  Continues up easier slab, and around the right side of the upper roof.

Due to rockfall this route no longer exists!

If you cant see the hold, look for the glue. Solid crimps to the top, kinda makes you think though after the 4th bolt.

Due to rockfall this route no longer exists!

Scramble to the bottom of the large left-facing flake.

Follow the flake, 3 bolts on the top side of the flake, until it is possible to step right onto the face below the 4th bolt. Don't hang around here too long before committing to a balancy sequence of moves that will allow you to clip the 5th bolt.

After you clip the 5th bolt quickly lieback the vertical seam up to the anchors.

A short left-facing corner past two bolts leads to a sloping ledge shared with Pleasure Dome. Clip the 4th bolt on that route (Pleasure Dome moves right) and continue straight up (crux) to a large sloping ledge. Finish up the featured headwall above past three more bolts to shared anchors with

Groove Factor

.

This is a bolted climb between Synchronicity and Gulp Swallow. It heads up the face for about four clips before moving slightly left into a layback flake system. At some point you clip a high bolt and traverse left, up and around the blank bulge on which the bolt was clipped. This puts you just under the anchors. The third to last bolt, located here, has been flattened with a hammer [as of 11/29/2009].

The climb starts with a couple of swift pulls on small edges.  Getting past the start may prove to be the crux for some.

After 3 bolts an overlap is reached. For many this will prove to be the crux. To succeed you must commit to a steep lieback, but the holds are good, and after a few moves big flat holds offer comfort.

The climbing above is not as difficult as what lies below, but it is fun with a mixture of reachy balance moves and slab climbing.

High quality, spicy, steep slab climbing to a couple small overhangs and tricky slab finish from old Utopia route.  Route name is a reminder of a shameful time in the history of this nation.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Slab City (Right)