This sweet line has four star movement and features with two star rock. Climb up just left of the Imperio link-ups to a high first bolt. Slings are nice on the first few bolts to keep the rope drag down. Climb up moderate ground for the first two bolts, clip high, and make a techy traverse right, followed by a hard traverse left. Wrestle through the attached flake, V5ish, with a few hard clips, and jug bash your way past a few more clips of pumpy climbing to a good rest. Get it all back, avoid the guano, and tackle the final punchy moves on stellar rock to the top of the wall.

Emotional Letdown

Dobby

Sorcerer's Stone

The Dark Arts

Hocus Pocus

Pork Rind

This Little Piggie Got Pumped

Daily Prophet

No Warts on this Hog

Bones

This climbs nice orange rock up sustained, just-past-vertical climbing. There are a few challenging clips and several tricky sections. Just before the anchor, hit easier ground and a good clipping slot (watch out for nests and guano) to reach way up and clip the anchors.

Touted as "the best 12d on the Western Slope," this is certainly a wild, sustained pitch on some pretty good East Elk limestone.

Start to the left of

Dobby

but to the right of The Wand on a line of bolts that leads straight up and then hard left to a roof of sorts. Cop a rest here near the bird doo-doo. Then crank through a few hard-to-read boulder problems (many closely spaced bolts) with very little rest and odd sequences until you reach a marginal shake below the grey, steep, and slightly runout headwall. Another redpoint crux of long reaches on good crimps leads to some marginal holds and finally the chert band below the anchors. Stand up carefully, and then clip the anchors....

After 6 bolts of fairly moderate climbing, head left (going up and right is The Wand, 12d). A hard move gets you to underclings below a bulge. Find your sequence through the tough bulge, make your way up to a jug sidepull, and pull one final sequence to reach easier climbing to the anchor. This has really great, varied climbing.

While this route looks pretty cool and is quite unique, the climbing is only OK.

Start up a very low angle slab, hoping the popcorn footholds don't break off on you. When possible, utilize the corner for some awkward moves on slightly damp holds. Higher, traverse almost directly left under the roofs and at one point moving left on a cool foot ramp. Finish up the easier finish, and mantel up onto the ledge for the chains.

The route traverses so much, it requires cleaning by seconding. Cleaning on TR would be near impossible or at least very annoying.

I found this to be pretty hard for 10c. It felt more like 11- to me.

With steep, technical climbing, I found this one to be better than its

uber

popular neighbor "

Daily Prophet

". Start up easy approach climbing that gradually gets harder until you find yourself laybacking in a technical dihedral. Persevere, snag a decent rest, and tackle to the upper section. If all the chalk has washed off, this section might feel tricky at first, but there are decent holds available.

This route is technical, slightly overhanging face climbing at its best. If the rock were just a bit better and fewer rests, it would be a classic.

Start up the shared start with

Pork Rind

, after the easy approach climbing execute a traverse right to a technical sustained section up to an okay rest. After recovery, break right and enter a sustained section with a few small holds and big moves up to another good rest. Climb through the final challenging, but not as hard as the lower, climbing to the anchor.

This has good 5.11 climbing on okay rock to a thin and kind of nasty crux move at 3/4 height. It has easy but slightly run out climbing to anchors.

I thought It was ok climbing but not as good as all the hype.

This route makes for a good warm-up in this section of Hogwarts, although the start is the crux. Pull through the opening corner crux corner, then relax on the slab. Good holds take you through some small overhangs up to an anchor.

It is probably a good idea to stickclip the second bolt if you aren't super solid on 11-.

If you break left on the slab, it is Witchcraft, 5.12c.

The extension of this route is Ravenclaw, 5.12c.

This fun route makes for a decent warm-up with good holds to start and a hard thin techy finish. Start up with good holds to a large hole and an obligatory nest / midden - don't reach too far back in the hole. Climb right out of this hole then back left to easier ground. Get a good rest, and climb throghu the crux with hard-to-find holds on techy gray limestone.

An 11b/c, "Platform 9 3/4", breaks off right after the second bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hogwarts