Begin with a fun stem until reaching a small overhang and the crux. Use small footholds to bump higher and eventually reach the large chockstone above, either side is a bomber hold. The chockstone will look iffy but is quite solid. Use that to get past the overhang then grab a handle above but grab it *lightly* because it’s weak.

Two solid bolts are on top and must be extended quite far with webbing, cordelette, or a static line. A 50’ static line worked great for anchoring with a knotted sliding X.

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Start with a fun stem. Avoid the choss. Move out left and up. This tends to be the crux. The crux is well protected. 7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

The crux is at the start mainly, but towards the top there is another difficult move. A very edgy crimpey climb will make your fingers sore, but you can use the arete on the left to help. Feels a lot like a really fun highball bouldering problem, but would need several crash pads because of uneven ground. Protected with great bolts for the anchor and another for the directional, although the anchor bolts are spaced a little weirdly so probably use something like a sliding X to equalize. Also ideal to use some cordelette to throw the anchor over the edge, friction is otherwise bad really quick on the pretty chossy top edge.

The start tends to be the crux. Crimps and some stellar hands and feet throughout. Really fun movements. Chossy at the top. Pull down, not out. Finish with some sandy slopers. Accessible via the left most top rope anchor. Use a quad and one quickdraw in the redirect bolt. Looking at the crag, access the top from a short scramble up to the right. Watch out for the crypto.

This is my favorite climb at the crag. Super fun. I layback on this bad boi all day. Others like to shove their body into the void. Do what feels right.

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Protection

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