High Lonesome, Umbrella Wall, Falls Walls, Telluride, 5 pitches, 11b/c, sport.

Pitches 1 and 2. Start on the far left (east) side of the Umbrella Wall. Both pitches are 5.10 and go up the right-leaning corner/face. Awkward start to the first pitch, wet/mossy ledge with loose rock to an open book corner.  Don't be deterred with the shitty start, the rest of the route is really good. There is a harder bolted pitch/option for the 1st/2nd pitches ("Jokers Wild", 5.12+) on the right overhanging side, or just continue face climbing up the right-leaning corner (just to the right of a big dirty crack). Both pitches are roughly 80 -100 feet long. You could link P1/P2, but you'd need 20+ draws.

Pitch 3. The money pitch. Traverse to the right across the upper left black streak, then pull the small roof just left of the top of center black streak. Climb up to the main umbrella wall roof with an exposed traverse all the way to far right hand corner of the roof. Set a hanging belay (sort of) in the corner), 5.10-, 120 - 140 feet.

Pitch 4. Traverse out right from the belay, then go around the arete/corner and up. After coming around the arete/roof onto the face, climb straight up on big holds (jugs/pockets) staying just to the right of the crack. You get big exposure on the first few moves out from the belay. This is the easiest pitch of the climb, 5.9, 70 - 80 feet.

Pitch 5. There is an old bolt thread (no hanger), and one bolt directly above the belay (unfinished project?). Don't climb this. Climb the line to the right of the belay to an overlap where the wall steepens considerably. Power through the first few bolts, and then the climbing mellows considerably. It is bouldery at the crux, 5.11b/c, 80 - 100 feet.

There are loose rock/pebbles, and helmets are recommended. This is a great route if you want to get up high off the ground and see the beautiful valley below. It is one of the best routes in the Telluride region...get on it!

High Lonesome

Hyperspace

Nahoramazda

Hyperspace has face climbing with a few big ledges up to the first anchor. The 1st pitch anchors are in orange/yellow rock to the left of the

Nahoramazda

anchors.

P2 starts up a bit of an open book corner to a small roof/bulge (crux) then fires up the face to another prominent roof. Climb up the left side of the roof and up the face past the final few bolts to the anchors.

Start left of the drainage gully under the main Umbrella Wall roof. Climb up through a few big ledges, 8 or 9 bolts. It is possible to traverse left from anchors and climb the 2nd pitch of

Hyperspace

(recommended). There is exceptionally loose and shitty rock on the ledge near the anchors, heads up to your belayer.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Umbrella Wall