Start slightly left of the crack and head up the crack a foot or two then start left across a ridge and then around the bulge.  Top out to the left of the bulge.  The top out is really easy but it is a bit high.  The hardest part is getting around the bulge, make sure to have a good spot.

This route corresponds with route 5 on the topo.

Sea Of Anarchy (?)

Roof Problem

Overhanging Lieback

Warm Up

Unnamed

Mini ridge

Gonzo

Dirty Slab

Unnamed (Left of Magoo)

Mr Magoo

One Hand

Yoga Master

Bates Problem (Sit)

Welcome to Flavortown (Unknown Eliminate)

Magoo Traverse Start

When Magoo Flew (Dyno)

Mantle

Bates Problem (stand)

Bates Eliminate (Sit)

Bates Eliminate (stand)

Unnamed 2

Magoo Slap

Magoo Face

Magoo Traverse

Bates Problem (Arete)

Start with both hands on the low Mr. Magoo jug/dish. Dyno up and right to the blind slopey jug rail, then roll over and top out.

Note on Route Name/FA - lmk if there is an original and I'll change. When Magoo Flew (A "

famous

" Mr. Magoo movie) seems like a pretty good name in the meantime.

Just around the roofy portion of the overhanging lieback to the right, climb the vertical roof.  This is on the northernmost Magoo, on the wall nearest the road.

This has a pumpy move, but other than that it's not too tough.

On the North (maintence road) side of the northmost Magoo, there is a rightward overhanging sloper lieback.  This route requires 8 feet of overhung sustained movements that are quite taxing.

You can't miss this route from the road, as it's probably the first thing that you will notice when looking at the Magoos if you're headed either there or to Castle Rock and you look left.

This is route 2 on Avery's pretty picture.

This problem is on the magoo closest to the access road it is on the left hand side while facing the rock from the road. It is route 3 on my pretty little picture.

This one is really simple.  Start just right of the flake and work your way right and up to the big pocket right above your head. As an aside be prepared for the pocket to be full of nasty water if you are there early in the season.  Also the feet are really slick so make sure to place them well.

This problem is on the magoo closest to the access road it is on the left hand side while facing the rock from the road.  It is route 1 on my pretty little picture.

Starting in the small cave go for the pocket to your left.  Getting your feet high and work your right hand up the arete until you hit the sweet spot (you will know it when you hit it) and top out.  If you want to make it a little easier you can use something other than the arete to your left but it seriously simplifies the problem

Standing start, gripping on the side pull about 3ft off the ground. Stick your left and right hands into a great crack a little up and to the right, ~5ft off the ground, then move your left hand onto a nub and right hand further up into a horizontal finger crack. Pull up onto the top of the ridge.

Squeeze your way up the middle of the Muppet's nose hanging blob to the right of overhanging lieback

This is a bit of a squeeze job on the short slab between two VB problems. Start with right hand in a sloping two finger pocket and left on a sloper and go straight up. The crux is a mantel move at 5-6 feet.

This is the only obvious problem that starts between Mr. Magoo and the Tree to the left of it. Stand start on two slopey, right facing hand holds with poor feet and make a hard move to a sloper or delicate rail above and to the right. Another hard move to match, and then top out however you can.

Top out 1: Go straight up and avoid all of the Mr Magoo features (maybe a bit harder, but doesn't add significant difficulty) - Direct Line

Top out 2: Finish on Mr. Magoo to the right - Original Line

This problem is on the magoo closest to the access road it is on the left hand side while facing the rock from the road. It is route 6 on my pretty little picture.

Sit start on the two obvious hand holds.  Throw high to a small shelf.  Then head straight up to top out.  Top out is the same as route 5, Up and Over.

Climb the face on the front side of the main Magoo boulder with only one hand (left is easier). Easier and harder variations are plentiful. At one point, I had identified ten different ways to do this thing, with the hardest being roughly V3.

My favorite variation skips the jug at the top and instead did a mantel off the previous hold, and doesn't use any holds above for the hands.

Starts on good hold at about four feet. Climb straight up the left arete, keeping your feet right of the arete (including the faint continuation of it down low).

The crux is a high step onto the start hold. The problem got it's name while I was climbing it for the first time. Joel Ruscher looked over at me high stepping above my waist and said, "What are you? Some kind of f---ing yoga master?"

This is the sit start to Bates Problem on the Magoo Boulder. Start with both hands on the low horn/edge near the tree, left foot on the tiny dish, right foot smeared almost on the tree. Hard first move to a small left hand edge, another hard move to the right hand above it. From there its Bates Problem with it's variations.

Note on Grade/Break - There was a hold breakage on the second hard move. The hold is bigger now but more of a sidepull - apparently made this harder.

https://vimeo.com/24194612

Start on the undercling and climb up to the top without using the left or right arete or the obvious pocket/jug. You can use the pocket to make this a V1+. The hold on the very top could be seen as part of the right arete but its fine to use it to top out at the very end.

This problem is on the magoo closest to the access road it is on the left hand side while facing the rock from the road. It is route 4 on my pretty little picture.

Start right of the flake and traverse right until you go around the first bend then top out.  Not a very hard traverse but it is a nice warm up.

Listed in Thornburg's guide as "Mantle v1" and it's pretty fun.  To the right of Magoo slab or Magoo Face is a large hole at waist height.  Start here and go straight up pulling and mantling on bad slopers.

Start with sloping crimps, bust a move up and left to the topout. All face holds are allowed for this variation

This problem, and it’s variations, have different names in different books - and now lots of videos with different names which had caused a mess on Mountain Project.

It looks like the original name of this one is “a variation of Bates Eliminate”, or “Bates Eliminate left”.

But this has caused confusion because there are no obvious face holds being eliminated in this variation. Also the grades for all these variations are a bit all over the place - adding to confusion.

The Bay Area Bouldering guide just calls “Bates Problem” and sometimes it is called “Bates Stand”.

Quote from original post:

When I first did it, the rating was V3, but the start holds were considerably bigger back then.

Sit start to the face version of Bates Problem, eliminating the highest left hold and going up and right for the last move.

https://vimeo.com/154551814

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-qoibO_fWw

Ascend the face to the left of the tree, next to Mr. Magoo. Stand start on two incredible small, right facing holds, but avoid the upper left hold (in this eliminate variation), going right from the start.

Follows the shallow crack up the short gully/dihedral. Going to the top is optional, most just downclimb.

Start on right hand undercling to left hand (poor) crimp then throw for the jug. Climb the arete to top .

Starts on the undercling and/or the flared crack on the side of the boulder facing Castle Rock proper. Make a balancy move up to the sloper over the bulge and finally to the large hueco.

Jim Thorburg claims V3 but seemed a bit easier than that to me.

Start on the right side of the arete described here as "

Bates Problem (Arete)

", and traverse all the way around the boulder to finish up Mr Magoo.

There are numerous good resting points, but this is a solid warm up, and can be much harder if desired by altering sequences.

This problem is on the left hand side while facing the rock from the road.

Start with both hands on the arete and work your way up then over right until you can top out.

The sit start variation goes at V2, the stand start goes at V0+.

Description

Protection

Routes in Mr Magoo Boulder