Start in the chossy crack system just right of the main crack system. Climb up 15 feet and place adequate gear before stepping over left into the main crack system. 

  The rock quality improves as you climb higher. The jams are steep but bomber. Near the top of the crack you will find the crux which is well protected by gear near your feet. Stellar line! 

On the kid.

 

Kid in a Candy Store

Herb's Lounge

According to Jay Foley: This is as good as it gets anywhere!  Mega Classic corner crack for the Taos area with fantastic thin jams and great lay backing. This thing is around 30 meters so tie knots and consider using a 70m rope. The pro isn't as straight forward as you would expect so keep your mind open. 

Quality hard basalt crack climbs a few feet above a remote section of the Rio Grande.  Expect solitude, eagles and osprey, and a glorious setting.  The wall is mostly east by southeast facing.  Summer can be too hot in the direct sun, but ideal on mornings and evenings.  Fall is the best time to climb here.  See "Taos Rock" for location and route descriptions.  There is a wade-in sand bottom swimming hole right in front of the crag.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Candy Store