Another great route. Start matched on a small sloping rail with your feet on a slick wall. Make a big move out left to a duck bill shaped hold and continue straight up past incut crimps to a hold-less top out. There should be a sizable tree to your back 

  Variation: Start directly under the Power Circle Stand and sit at a small dihedral. Climb this feature into Full Circle. FA: Joe K. 2/2008

Full Circle

Poisoned Dragon

Power Circle (Stand)

The Surgeon

TFBTAFS

Black Cloud

The Conductorz

Unagi

Boomerang

Hirame

Awabi

Hamachi

This is a fun little problem that involves a unique campusy dyno.  

  Starts on the obvious jugs to the left of the surgeon. Grab a piss poor left hand pinch on the arete and figure out how to get the jugs.

Climb the schist flake to the rounded top out. Try avoiding blowing the top out and rolling down the hill.

A sweet steep line. Start on the radical crystals of Awabi and make some big reaches finish via the Power Circle exit.

Start standing and crimp to a tricky high top out.

This is a stellar climb that requires a good deal of lock off strength. Start with your hands in perfect incut slots and your foot in a large triangular hole. Make a hard lock off two insanely perfect pinches. Exit out right

Start left hand on a small crimp right hand on low under clings. Climb the arete to the awesome top out. Classic.

A traversing line across perfect rock. It also features some hard iron cross moves, hence the name.

Greg's favorite sushi, raw eel.  Nice black rock and good holds get you off the ground enough for a nice high technical mantel.

This is a quality route, a good warm-up or project. Start sitting as low as you can and make cool moves around the bend in the arete using perfect holds and an awesome foot chip. Continue up the arete until you can rock over onto the slab.

A great problem with beyond perfect holds. Start low in the large horizontal break and climb the series of crimps and slopers to the top. Top out left or right. Climb up the cool sloper and dyno out left for a pocket, hold the swing and top out.

Start at the obvious crystals and top out.

"Yellow Fin Tuna". Same as Hirame, but go right.

Stoddard Hill State Park is located off of Route 12 in Ledyard, CT. It is about 5 minutes from Mohegan Sun Casino. Park at the boat ramp and follow the trail across from the boat ramp, up stream, to the Stoddard graveyard. Just above the graveyard are the diamond hard cliff bands that make up the area. This area has some fantastically steep gneiss rock with super unique holds. Its also idyllically located on the Thames River which often cools the area down and offers a great western view. This area gets good afternoon sun. This is a small bouldering area with PERFECT rock.  The rock is gneiss, but feels almost like quartzite.

 VIDEO: s22.photobucket.com/albums/…¤t=stoddard1.flv 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Stoddard Hill State Park