This is the far left route where the only anchors we saw were at.  The route is pretty clean. watch for small rocks to break, all the big holds were solid. There was some chossy dirt to the right for most of the route.  There are 2 little vertical sections you have to pull over and up back to the slabby part and these felt like 5.8 moves.  There are also some reachy moves and lots of mantles and hand foot matches because I used the bigger holds and avoided the small ones that could pop.  But most of the climbing is fun 5.6 moves.

Far Left

Borderline

Wingspan (AKA Eagle Rock Traverse)

Far Right

Desperate Times

A new unknown route starting to the left of

Far Left

, and just to the right of the "Private Property" fence.

This route is well protected. Desperate Times is broken up into three short, well bolted pitches. Each of the first two pitches has 7 bolts on it. The last pitch has two bolts. Bolts are all bomber new glue ins. The rock is chossy and it feels like every hold is a time bomb waiting to break off. Helmet for the belayer is recommended.

Descend by rappelling the route. A doubled 70m rope WON"T reach the ground from the top anchor.

Indeed, the route borders the fence between Richard Alatorre Park and the private property north of the fence.  Borderline climbs the steep knobby face adjacent to the fence with the Beware of Dog sign. Boulder up the steep face and past thirteen black camouflaged Sentinel hangers to an anchor equipped with large Mussy Hooks. While you may encouter some loose holds Borderline is remarkably solid with copious stellar knobs. Careful not to entangle your rope in the tree limbs when pulling the rope. Moving to the south to pull the rope may reduce the likelihood of a snag.

This is a fairly long and varied traverse across the most obvious part of Eagle Rock. (From Left to Right): It starts at the beginning of Far Far Left and continues all the way to the ledge under the far right tree. (I think of the traverse as an out-and-back that requires me to do the sequences from both directions.) All of the rock fair game for footholds, just don't touch the dirt. You could bring up boulder pads to cover the uneven sections, but most falls are safe. You shouldn't be more than a 5 feet off the ground even in the highest sections.

I did laps on this early in the Pandemic, and although it's not powerful, it was a nice way to get mileage and practice footwork.

60ft straight up with obvious bolts and 2 chains at the top. Lots of rocks jutting out that serve as great hand and foot holds - that is, when they don't break off. Quite chossy, test your holds before putting weight on them and make sure your belayer has a helmet.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Eagle Rock