This is one rowdy route! Bring your head game! Climbs two of Mill's best features: the imposing mega arch up under the giant roof and the E.T. Roof finger crack on the upper headwall of Eagle's Head Buttress. Gear is good when you have it, spicy climbing the entire way! Harden up and get it! This is what night terrors are made of!

Pitch 1-(5.11) Start on the face right of the arch, looking for some bolts. Delicate climbing will join you with the imposing, blocky arch at about 30' up. Stem, twist, body wedge, and ninja your way through the arch to the small horizontal roof. Clip the bolt the fire over to the anchors. Insane pitch. Props to CL for putting this up ground up.

Pitch 2-(5.10) Whew! This pitch is even scary to follow! Traverse left out from under the mega roof, aiming at the edge. Tread lightly here. Establish yourself on the face and pull the bulge to the anchors. Keep it together and DFU.

Pitch 3-(5.10) Follow the incipient weakness straight up with just enough gear. As the steepness eases continue climbing up and left towards the obvious right facing corner above.

Pitch 4-(5.10) Climb the steep corner, following the bolt right at the top (same corner as pitch 4 of Boner Jamz).

Pitch 5-(5.12-) E.T. Roof pitch. Wow! Amazing, over-hanging finger crack! Good pro and a few decent rests. Once over the lip, climb up and left on little pro. Don't miss the pod!

Extra-Terror-Estrial

The Twilight Tower/Boner Jamz Extension

This combination of old and new pitches adds up to one fabulous route. Twilight Tower/Boner Jams Extension is a powerful route that climbs mainly flawless granite up the Eagle’s Head Buttress in Mill Creek. Other than the wandering, slightly run-out first pitch, the rock is superb.  Twilight Tower climbs through one of Mill Creek’s most aesthetic corners. The Boner Jams Extension then traverses right into a steep, featured corner system leading to the top. All anchors are bolted. Please leave quick links! Carry replacement webbing or cord.

Pitch 1-(5.7) Work up grey ramp  and then traverse face on ledges, aiming up and left at a shallow corner. Climb up corner to anchors.

Pitch 2-(5.10) Climb up corner through the small roof on positive flakes. Continue up to anchors at the base of the Twilight Tower

Pitch 3-(5.10+) Climb the pristine, arching corner and pull the bulge.  Follow the wide crack up and left to anchor on ledge.

Pitch 4-(5.7) Traverse ledge system out right to corner system and anchors.

Pitch 5-(5.10) Follow clean corner up to the start of the ET roof variation on the right at the top of the corner. Don't go right towards the bolt, finish up and left onto a block and the anchors.

Pitch 6-(5.11) Climb up shallow corner and pull through broken roofs. Continue up and right, exiting on the right face.

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Routes in Eagle's Head Buttress