Definitely one of the best routes around the area.

Sit start on the prow and follow it straight up without going to the right.

Getting into the undercling/gaston half way up the route was the crux for me but was super fun to work through, followed by a somewhat easy mantel

Lobster Arete

Breed

Blue

Lobster Traverse

Sixteen Shells

Pony

Johnny

Ponytail

Start on Lobster Arete, but instead of staying on the arete move left to a small side pull on the face.  Right hand falls into another side pull, then toss for the lip.

Climbs a small crack on the north end of the west facing wall. Crimpy start.

Crimpy start to nice jug at top of shallow corner.

Start on a crimp rail behind some bushes on the north face and work your way south.  On the north face the traverse goes up a bit higher, then drops back down at the corner.  From the corner go across the crimp rail at about head height until you reach the big undercling where you can rejoin and top out on Lobster Arete.

Start on a jug five feet up and go over the short bulge, moving slightly left.

Ascends the little seams, pockets and crimpers just to climber's right of the corner/arete on the south face. Crux for me was topping out.

Problem to the farthest right of the south face. I guess it's supposed to be a double-handed dyno. I'm a wimp and found a right-handed side pull and then a mini dyno before topping out (my version is more V2).

Start on underclings in a small crack on the west facing side. Use crimp and move up to a side pull on the left.

Note: The Utah Bouldering book by Grijalva & Co. (2003) calls a version of this climb Pony (V5, which I believe eliminates the side pull).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lobster Rock