A fun slab climb that leads right up under the wildly overhanging Hoof Direct aid line.

P1 5.8+/5.9 35-40m: Small roofs and overlaps

P2 5.8 25m: More slab w/ overlaps.  Almost always dry.

Straight Creek Boogie

Rolling Thunder

Charlatan Man

Pastor of Muppets

Other Side of the Tracks

Erockticka

Heavens to Mergatroid

Ultimatum

Fake it till you make it

Cloven Hoof

Wild Rosy

Trophy Wife

Climbs the Cloven Chimney

Begin at a flake with good pro, continue up passing 2 bolts on the face of the chimney. Some Bombay moves lead to an overlay with a bolt above. Perform the proven "Cloven Hoof" method to gain the upper dihedral. continue on good gear through the squeeze chimney (or layback/friction) to a bolted belay/rap

Rolling Thunder is a nice route that has instant exposure up water worn dishes and features. Both pitches were Bolted by Greyell.

P1: 5.9 - 30m Follows a clean crack to a featured face next to an arete, Then pull over a bulge using some featured fins.

P2: 5.11a "All bolted, but a red camalot is helpful for a the first piece above the belay. Head out left to first bolt, then traverse right, at the steep crux bulge, go up/slightly left (ignore the single bolt out right). Have fun."  -Shappart

Starts in a LFC, super grippy easy climbing. Work your way up passing a couple bolts to a large Roof. Good feet,  Exit out right to a RFC up to a second roof.  Clip a bolt and round the roof on the right.  Enter the Crux, Thin fingers layback, Another bolt, More Crux, More thin gear (BD X.1 or X.2). Climbing eases off leading to some dirty cracks (BD .75) and ledges to a huge belay platform.

Tie Knots in the ends of your Rope. Best to belay second up and rappel together. Rappeling w/ 70m Rope w/ Stretch will get you to the ground.

Best to use Double Ropes.

Pastor of Muppets is a variation for the first two pitches of the Other Side of the Tracks.  It goes up the dihedral inline with the upper pitches of OST.  The route is a mix of bolts and gear. The crux comes roughly 2/3 of the way through the first pitch,

P1 is 45m 5.10a

P2 is 30m 5.8

Other Side of the Tracks is well established as Spring Mountain’s most acclaimed and popular route. It features five long pitches of excellent face climbing with panoramic views of North Cascade peaks and valleys. At the route’s heart is the sustained headwall pitch (#3), surely one of Spring’s finest!

1.Up the broad slab to the 12’ vertical white headwall at 9+. Opinions differ on whether the crux is the grunty headwall move or a tricky overlap midway up the slab. This pitch looks mossy from below, but the holds are clean and more traffic will help.

2.Angle slightly left up the hanging slab at 5.7 to a 5.9 finish. A gorgeous pitch and immaculately clean.

3.Tighten up your laces for the 5.10 enduro pitch. Right off the bat is a reachy bulge that slows most suitors, even with a bolt at their face. From there, work through endless crimps, smears, sidesteps and bolts - 14 and I doubt you'll skip any!

4.The angle backs off, but enjoyable face climbing continues toward the large fir tree with a 5.9 crux bulge. Several overlaps are protected by small cams.

5.More rambling slab climbing with bits of 5.9. Use the clean rock and bolts to guide you.

Rap the route with double ropes (50 m minimum). All belay/rappel stations are double bolts.

Erockticka is a nice 5 pitch route that goes up the main wall just right of The Other Side of the Tracks. I feel that this route is just as good, if not more enjoyable than Other Side of the Tracks.

P1: 510a 45m Start with a DIRTY boulder move onto a slab. (if you can do this, you can do the route) Follow the bolts up to a bush, Traverse Right (crux, 3 bolts) to the base of a 5.9 crack. Go up, exit RFC below bush on good feet to anchor on left. Mind Rope Drag.

P2: 5.9 40m Go Left up to the ramp or pod. Gear may require gardening. Two bolts above the pod. Traverse back right 30' past hollow undercling to a bolt. Up and right to Anchor.

P3 5.10a 35m Begin right side of anchor. Go up and trend left past two bolts. Enter into RFC, Gear is there but spaced out. Bolt will let you enter a left trending crack system for about 35' (5.8+), At the top of crack is a bolt, exit right past another bolt to the anchor.

P4 5.7 40m.  Gear is there. Start up left following small seams aiming for the tree. At dirty black pod, slowly start changing course back to right. Go up and over a LFC to gain the rib. Which is directly above belay. Avoid the dirty gully which is left of the rib you want to climb.

P5 5.8+ 35m Traverse right and step up to a bolt about 10' left and down from rap station.  Pass the double rap bolts to dirty ledges. Three final bolts lead you to the top. After the third bolt, don't be surprised with the increase of moss in the last 15' (1 placement) when the angle decreases.

Decent: Rap route: 70m rope with stretch will work, but advise  80m or double ropes   ****Separate Rap Line NOT ADVISED****

Fun 30m climb, Goes up a ramp to an arete. Can throw a nice heal hook around the arete to a nice edge. The Crux comes at the last bolt. Tops out on a ledge with a solitary tree.

P1: 5.9 Follows an arching flake, that leads to an Off Width (w? featured face).

P2: 5.8  Hand crack

Start in a dirty corner with easy climbing. go left around the roof, clipping a bolt from a good stance. Watch the rope drag. Head back right on good feet around the arete following a finger crack.  Continue up the face on good holds (3 bolts) to a no hands rest.  Bolt protects pulling right onto the next face.  More balancy moves (1 bolt) till a sinker hand jam pulls you in. Easy face climbing past two more bolts to the anchor.

A generous 60m will get you down, but a 70m rope works best.

A long time Greyell Project that was finished up by Hanna in 2013.  The route is roughly 100' left of Other Side of the Tracks.

Much of the climb is very moderate hueco hauls. with the crux coming at Pitch 3.

P1- 5.9

P2- 5.7+

P3- 5.10

P4- 5.7+

P5- 5.6/5.7

Additional Cleanup Credit:

D. Coltrane, M. Perkins, J Lescantz, J. Shappart.

Trophy Wife is a fun route that often gets neglected due to the fact that is far left of the more popular routes. But with more traffic it can stay moss free.

The route starts out face climbing up through some hollow flakes using bolts (And maybe one cam placement). Find the clutch pocket to handle the crux bulge. Then traverse right and continue up the upper flakes and cracks.

There is a nice belay ledge to either belay a second up, or to rappel from. A toprope would be possible with a 70m.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall