The following description is based on an ascent of this route by Richard and Joyce Rossiter in 1989.   This route takes the ultimate line just right of center on the Southwest Buttress.  Begin from the right side of the Ledge With 3 Trees.

Climb a hand crack and a finger crack through a bulge to the first bolt (about 2 feet above the crack), then work straight up the wall on solution holes and tiny edges to the second bolt.  Even thinner climbing leads to the third bolt.  This is where most people bail.  Continue up perilous terrain to a tips crack that curves up and right (good pro: small Aliens here), lieback to a second short finger crack, and climb more easily to belay from a vertical 2-inch crack on the right.  One may also continue up and left to a new ring anchor placed 24 July 2006. Lower off 80 feet.  In 1989 we climbed to the top of the buttress and endured a truly heinous descent through fallen trees, dense underbrush and loose talus.

Black Tiger is a lead I am not inclined to repeat. If I could find Chris Brislawn, I would ask his permission to refit the bolts on this beautiful route. The original bolts are now rusty with old SMC hangers and could be updated and arranged more effectively (I think).

Black Tiger

The Solution

Jaguar

The Resistance

Begin with a finger and hand crack, then pull up and left to a stance beneath the first bolt, which is shared with The Solution.  From the first bolt climb up and slightly right over ever more resistant terrain (and 3 more bolts).  The crux is in passing the last two bolts.  The solution holes vanish, though more holes are visible just above to lend encouragement.  When the angle eases, climb to a 2-ring anchor  on the slab.  Lower off 80 feet.

Crux Detour:  It is reasonable to step right above the 2nd bolt and finish with the difficult finger cracks of Black Tiger (q.v.).  Climb to the same 2-ring anchor and lower off 80 feet.

Begin from the middle tree on the Ledge With 3 Trees (where Black Tiger begins).  Climb straight up a crack (fingers and hands) to a narrow ramp that ascends to the left.  Pull up on a jug and clip the first bolt.  Continue straight  up past 3 more bolts.  The rock is super solid face/slab with amazing/delightful/necessary solution holes.  The crux is perhaps midway along the bolts.

This route is located on the Third Tier of Avalon on the Summit Pyramid (Southwest Buttress). Find two bolts on a smooth face at the base of the rock. Climb (mantle) past the bolts and climb up to the first bolt of Black Tiger. Place small gear to reach the bolt. Clip the bolt and move right along the crack placing gear to a bolt at the base of the arete. Follow a line of bolts up the steep arete on bullet-proof rock to a two bolt anchor. Great climb in a great position high above Boulder Creek.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Southwest Buttress