Neckgina has thoughtful, technical climbing on the lower half and turns into fun, moderate crack climbing above. It shares an anchor with

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.

Neckgina

Beedoo

Dumps Like a Truck

Hanky and the Brain

Farts of Unknown Origin

Kitty Rodeo

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Go Slide

Go Slide tackles the flared corner in the center of the wall. Begin up some easier terrain clipping bolts and enter the flare. The climbing gets progressively harder towards the top of the flare. The crux is just after the 6th bolt. Once through the flare, follow mellow cracks to the anchor.

This odd little route was the first established line in area and was used to access the top of the buttress via a Class 4 gully above the route. Start in a deep cleft to the right of

Dumps Like a Truck

and directly behind Sticks and Dicks Tower. Climb into the cave, and wander up the surprisingly clean and well-protected chimney. Exit the cave through a cool, small window onto a big ledge with a 2 bolt anchor.

You can rap from the ledge or belay your partner up and continue up

Dumps Like a Truck

.

This fantastic, full-value route has three distinct sections. Begin on the featured slab climbing great face passing 3 bolts up and right towards a massive boulder, and gain the large ledge below the squeeze. From the ledge, go to the back of the chimney, wiggle up to find a hand crack, place some gear on runners, traverse back out where the chimney widens, and continue up the squeeze. Wander back into the depths, and find more gear in the cracks/horizontals. There's also a chockstone that can be slung. Once through the squeeze, you'll find a nice 5.8 crack that leads to the anchor.

Hanky and the Brain is a fun mixed route with two starts. The direct line climbs an easy slab passing 3 bolts to a small ledge, and the right start climbs a mellow hand crack and joins the direct route at the third bolt. From the ledge, continue up following two more bolts to another small ledge, move left into the corner, and plug in a #3 Camalot on a runner. Continue up and right clipping two more bolts before you enter a shallow slot with double cracks. Jam and stem up the crack system to the anchor.

This unknown route was an old, abandoned trad line with no hangers at the old anchor location. We cleaned it up and replaced the anchor. Begin up a right-facing corner with a little wideness and some big hands. Avoid the chimney, and enjoy the great stemming. Look for gear in a small crack on the face. When the chimney narrows down, make a couple physical moves to gain the nice ledge. From the ledge, you can finish up

Hanky and the Brain

to the left or continue up a flake to a pedestal below an obvious, undercling traverse that leads straight right. The undercling traverse is airy and super fun and leads to a finger crack in a flare. Climb the flare into the alcove above to find the anchor.

Kitty Rodeo has two starts: the left start climbs up from the boulder leaning on the wall via a high hand jam and is easier if you're tall, and the right start traverses in from below

Go Slide

and is more delicate and technical. Follow the bolt line up to a nice finger crack that leads to the anchor.

Your Lipstick is Showing begins just right of

Neckgina

, climb a pillar following 3 bolts, and then continues up and left to join

Neckgina

at the fourth bolt.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Main Wall