The easiest route up the most obvious face in the park. Work your way up the series of narrow landings on the Donald's smooth, South face. Start at the middle of the base of the South face, work your way right up the Southeast corner to top-out.

Heterographie

Republican Hair

Get Off of My Stack

Liquid Courage

Sky Tower

Breaking Up the Band

Scaling the Donald

Philanderer's Field

Precedented Times

Spooning St Peter

Flex Dungeon

Crimp Hand Strong

THE line of the Madison area.No good rests. The meat of this route will require single-pad crimps and side pulls. The feet are bad and will require some creativity to stabilize yourself.Don't be surprised if you get some honks from the road cheering you on!

Flawless, immaculate, pristine, just like that classic republican hair. That's what your send better be if you don't want to bounce off The Donald's pointier bits on your gravity-powered trip to the deck.Easy mantle of the first bulge to mono and two finger pockets of the crux face. Reachy moves. Good jugs and bad feet to second mantle. Finish on the top and walk yourself off the back side.

Sit start layback and work your way up the overhanging corner to top out.Wall with Precedented Times is off for full grade.Don't let the fact that it's an eliminate boulder distract you from the fact that it's good, classic fun.

Essentially a fist jam boulder problem with an easy scramble at the base. Nice and slabby with lots of potential betas.Work your way up the main crack or slab it up on either side.Named after all the 1980's era beer cans I had to clean out of the main crack to make this one go.

Hard Sandstone with fairly good clean holds all the way up. crux is right in the middle~ 10'up.

The approach to the base is covered in thorn bushes but you can just rap down from the landing about in the middle of the route. I'd recommend the belayer sit at the midway landing looking down at the start.10 degree overhanging wall which makes this climb surprisingly pumpy. Start with hands and heel hook on small shelf near head level. Good holds make for fun climbing on the bottom section while your back is towards the opposite wall. At the half-way point, the crux begins. Rest jugs turn into pocket crimps, sandy slopers, and big reaches. Slopey top-out.Avoid using the wall to your back and stay all on the south face for full grade.

A very easy "stair case" with good jug holds all the way up.

A static climb with solid jugs and small overhangs. Work your way up the edge of the tower. Fall carefully with a small jump back. Falling straight down will bounce you off the rocks before you make it to the deck.

Sit start and climb it layback or thin hand jams. Very physical moves to get the blood pumping. Slopey top-out.

Share a hug with some St Peter sandstone.Good ol' chimney climb. Chicken wings and foot cams are a solid choice on this flared crack. Midpoint runs out of holds a bit, so utilize that counter pressure.

Similar feel to Philanderer's Field. The main feature is the overhanging bulge near the middle/top. Good jugs just about all the way up.

1/2 sunny, 1/2 wooded sandstone tower lots of good climbs to be logged here a good 1/2 day or afternoon after work spot, easy to get to from Madison WI. Not a good spot for small kids or inexperienced climbers, there are easy routes, but you have to down climb there are no walk offs. Crash zones are narrow and landing areas drop off steeply behind, spotter and crash pad is a must.Donald Rock was important to the Ho-Chunk, who lived in the valley before Europeans arrived and dubbed it Preacher’s Cap. the rock was renamed "Donald Rock Wayside Park" in honor of John S. Donald who gave it to the state Department of Transportation, and two surrounding acres, in 1952 as a scenic wayside. The "wayside" was closed in the 70's due to vandalism, but it is included in the now Donald Park trail system (Dane County Parks). There is a geocache stashed on the top of this rock.Wrap blocks for top roping carefully. Two 30 ft webbing straps should be sufficient for nearly all anchors. Webbing is recommended as it is less likely to "roll" out of place like static rope.Wet sandstone is easily cracked. Be respectful of the park and please do not climb if the rock is not completely dry.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Donald Rock