Sitting all by its lonesome self on a squat block is a short 2 bolts affair. While at first sight it seems like its name will be its only redeeming quality, Lustography climb really well for a highball boulder problem on bolts. And it was drilled by hand!

Start with a difficult throw to an edge or just be tall (don't dab on the left wall). Clip the first bolt and mantle a shelf, not necessarily in that order. Good holds and longish reaches lead to a second bolt then things ease up to the anchor.

Surprisingly fun!

Lustography

Guillotine

Green Eggs and Ham

Novacain

Ed's Route

Gone With the Wind

Blues Streak

Huck's Fin

Shinangwav

Hero Maker

A-Climb-A-Tize

Ed's Route

climbs a hard to protect, open book dihedral using various sized edges and fancy footwork. Follow the obvious seam up and left about 40 feet until you intersect the upper crack of

Novacaine

.  Careful face climbing along with the crux mark the first 25 feet, holds and protection increase as the route does. Finish on a ledge and build an anchor. Walk off.

To sum it up: quality rock, difficult and tricky protection, fun.

Scramble through 20 feet of 4th class to an awesome slightly overhanging face.Steep and juggy with some long reaches.

Near the center of Book Cliffs is a large open book, with two bolted lines on the left wall (

Guillotine

and

Blues Streak

), a broken pillar in the corner, and an attractive green face on the right wall.

Green Eggs

climbs the green face, starting just left of the buttress/arete (which is

A-climb-a-tize

) and right of the broken pillar in the corner.  Climb more or less straight up, protecting in horizontal cracks and resisting the urge to traverse off the line, until it is necessary to step left to surmount a small bulge.  Continue to anchors just below the top.  This is the best of the easier (5.9 and down) routes on the crag.

Near the center of Book Cliffs is a large open book, with two bolted lines on the left wall (

Guillotine

and

Blues Streak

), a broken pillar in the corner, and an attractive green face on the right wall (

Green Eggs and Ham

).  To the right of the buttress/arete formed by the right-side of the green face (

A-climb-a-tize

) is a slightly right-leaning crack leading to an obvious roof.  Climb this (some possible loose rock, but inconsequential), judiciously turn the roof, and continue up face to the top.

The route described here may be a slight variation of that described in Smith's and Tustig's 2004 guide.  Toward the right (eastern) side of Book Cliffs is a striking, but short (about 30 feet), square-cut face with an arete on its right margin.  Start about 10-15 feet left of the arete (not just right of the arete as described in the guide -- that route is

Hero Maker

(5.11a)).  Climb a disjointed crack system to its end, step right, then face climb to the top.  The guide indicates that

Gone With the Wind

may be on the cleaner face between the disjointed crack system and the arete, but that line appears a bit harder than 5.7 and may be more difficult to protect -- although it looks like the better route!

Smith and Tustig in their guide say that the section of the cliff with

Gone With the Wind

is used regularly by the Boy Scouts, and they encourage climbers to go elsewhere when the scouts are there.  Makes sense to me.

Blues Streak climbs like a better slightly longer version of its neighbor to the left,

Guillotine

. Long moves to perfect crimps and the occasional sidepull is the theme here.

The start can be intimidating and clipping the 1st bolt of Guillotine with a super extendo draw might be a good call. Gear could also provide piece of mind while you lieback the hollow-sounding flake/crack. From there clip a bolt and cast into a long series of awesome face moves. The angle steepens at the top, the holds get bigger, what more can you ask for? 3.5 stars...

Sweet trad line up the shallow open-book on the arete left of Guillotine.  Great gear and really fun climbing!

Shinangwav

- The Coyote.

Slightly overhanging,

Shinangwav

climbs a steepening crack to a small tight dihedral, Weird and precise movement get you up to a second bolt where you diagonal left and onto the face. A few more attention grabbing feet soon follow, passing 2 bolts and a small cam placement. Its all there, but not easy. Finish at a bolted anchor.

Delicate and thoughtful climbing!

Its good.

Use the arete on the thin lower face, then jugs on steep upper section.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Scout Lake