I'll start off by saying that this route was originally rated as 11+ but my partner and I both thought the crux was solid 12, perhaps holds have broken or perhaps Gilje is just a badass, either way expect to try hard on this route.

Begin scrambling left off the ledge past a drilled angle, climb through a chossy-looking face on solid jugs, side-pulls and underclings to where the crack begins. Follow the off-fingers crack up to a small roof where the crack pinches down to less than tips. Getting past the roof is very cryptic and physical and I won't say anymore as to not spoil it for those who come after. Beyond the roof you'll enter a flared chimney, and the crack opens up to accept your fingers once again. Squirm up the chimney, jamming the cack and getting occasional stances on features. Towards the top the crack pinches down to tips and tighter but features appear to keep things reasonable.

The word is that Gilje took the route beyond the current anchors to where the two routes would have shared a common anchor and from below it seems strange to end the climb below what looks like a splitter crack. Upon closer inspection the splitter is actually an offset seem and I have no doubt Gilje would've had the grit to pull it off but it would've upped the seriousness factor quite a bit as the seem looks hard and appears to be protectable with marginal rp's and maybe a micro cam here and there.

Grave

Unleashed

This is another bold Gilje route that gives you good bang for the buck!  The start climbs up a chossy face with good hand holds but crumbly feet, oh and there's no gear yet so don't fall.  After a few feet a flake is reached offering decent gear placements, but its still a flake so it might be best not to fall?  A few more moves get you safely past the flake and to the first bomber gear placements just in time for the crux.  After the crux a nice rest ledge lets you recover before the enduro layback corner to the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Grave Wall