Although this route is enjoyable it does have some loose blocks on it, so be sure to keep your belayer out of harm's way.  Step up on the overlapping blocks for about 12 feet then start moving up and left above the small overhangs to a vertical line of weakness below the inside left facing corner.  Climb up the inside corner until you can traverse out the face to the right and around the outside corner block to the main face.  Climb up the face easily passing some roten rock and find the easy route through the upper overhangs being aware of some more loose rock.

Wandering Around the Block

Radical Fun Times

Wave Crest

Dragon Jaws

Alluring Fire

Rapid oxygenation might be needed to sustain the burn up this beautiful steep face.  Start on the right side of the tree growing out of the base of the wall.  Follow a short broken crack/flake into a clean face about 25 feet. When handholds run thin head right then back left again.  Aim for the 2-foot wide overhanging block and figure out how to surmount it; there are at least two options here and either option will be the crux of the climb.  Note there are some loose rocks below and one above the overhang.  Catch a breath of Air and head to the top moving up and then slightly left.

A spectacular fun airy route, this line provides a variety of climbing starting with a short off width, followed by a beautiful face that leads to sustained climbing on overhanging jugs.  This line was first established on top rope, before realizing there was sufficient gear placement for it to be a good trad route for 5.9 climbers, who can endure the long upper section of sustained overhangs and has the experience to run a fairly straight line of gear on a wandering route.

Climb the off-width for about 15' until you can step left onto a 3" wide ledge.  Traverse the ledge left about 7 feet and when it peters out carefully step up and slightly left.  Move up the face to the center of the first 18" deep roof.  Note the block in the center of roof with a wide to narrow crack behind it, this is fairly secure  but perhaps not secure enough for a camming unit.  There is good solid gear out to the right end of the roof which is easy to access.  Pull over the center of the 18" roof and climb around the left side of the large white roof.  Follow the very short open book / corner crack straight up to the roof above and traverse out right on a horizontal shelf, there is a bit of broken rock here which can be avoided.  Climb over a protruding finger flake pointing to left.  I wouldn't trust any gear placed against this flake, however there is a spot for solid gear slightly above it.  Shoot straight up to the upper roof and work your way out to the lip.  A long reach over the final lip gives access to another protruding finger flake pointing to the right, once surmounting this flake your on top.  Whether top roping or leading keep your belayer out to the right side of the climb due to rockfall potential.

An interesting start, step up and traverse right under the crest of the wave 6 to 8 feet off the ground using a bunch of thin fins.  Then pulling over the roof that is in front of the pine tree at a line of weakness.  From there continue straight up to the top passing a 3 feet long protruding block that sticks out from the wall on the left side of the route.  The stability of this protruding block is a little bit questionable and the climber is advised to avoid using it for the safety of your belayer.

Escape out of the jaws of the dragon by climbing through the jugged filled overhand containing several options some of which are easier then others. Depending on your choice of holds this ratting could end up being 5.10+. After climbing past the fin that forms the tunnel head left for 6 feet and then up the moderate face and finish the route off by climbing through the upper tiered roof.  Watch out for loose rock particularly on the top end of the climb, belayer and others should take refuge against the main wall, and not be leaning against the dead pine tree in the rock fall zone.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North East Area