Knobby face climbing around a thin crack leads to a large ledge.

This climb can be done in one long pitch, but it may be better to break it into two shorter ones to avoid rope drag issues. The ledge is the obvious place to break up the climb.

Broken climbing above the ledge leads to another short headwall. Either take the right arching crack on the right or the crack into gully on the left.

Holy Buttress

Vertebrae

Dr. Strange Glove

Unholy Buttress

Rude Intrusion

Rat Race

A steep thin hands crack leads to a ledge. The crack thins to a seam above the ledge. Gear protected face climbing along the seam leads to another ledge.

If setting a top rope, build the anchor here. It may be best to stop here regardless before proceeding up the easy blocks up and to the right to reduce rope drag.

A thin crack leads to a large sloping ledge. Traverse left to a juggy corner. Follow this until it starts to turn into a squeeze section. At this point move left out onto the face for an insane exposed hand crack. Belay on large ledge at the end of the hand crack.

This is a variation to the Holy Buttress.

Knobby face climbing above a boulder leads to a thin crack. The R rating comes from these first handful of moves. The gear is thin and relatively spaced out with a bad landing. Follow the thin crack to a large ledge.

This climb can be done in one long pitch, but it may be better to break it into two shorter ones to avoid rope drag issues. The ledge is the obvious place to break up the climb.

Broken climbing above the ledge leads to another short headwall. Either take the right arching crack on the right or the crack into gully on the left.

Bouldery awkward climbing around a large intrusion up to a ledge. An awkward move leads into easy climbing in a right facing v-slot up to the top. Belay on a large ledge above the slot.

Unexpectedly thin climbing leads directly into the offwidth crux. This leads to a ledge with a bush. A chimney section above the ledge leads to some really cool moves out and into a fist crack.

The technical climbing ends on top of the fist crack. Either belay here, or continue on up 4th or low 5th for another 50' or so to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Holy Buttress Cliff