One move wonder on the right side of the boulder. Make a move to the lip while holding the swing. Start sitting on the rail as for Great Stone Face.

Hoop Dreams

Great Stoneface Direct

Stone Face Slab

Anger Management

Reverse midnight lightning

The Great Stone Face

Bandersnatch

Sign Language “Q”

Project (AKA Spider-Man)

The Thing

End is the crux

Start on The Great Stone Face but continue further left and top out with a decent jug. An extension has been done which goes out even further left past the jug, so there are multiple top out options. All seem to be within the same grade, just more work getting there.

Start as for Great Stoneface and then from the small pocket jump to a sharp jug above.

https://youtu.be/HJ2sVb8vVgk

Start low on side pulls, traverse the ramp to the right trend and then up over the boulder on tiny razor crimps. Great warmup although it's really tough for the grade!

To the right of the slab with a rock behind you. Start on a jug and traverse right up the rail.

Start on the sidepull sloper jug from here make one of two choices a move to a two fingered pocket then a cross or go straight or the hold. From here jump up to the good flat crimp. Some people get a high right foot or a low left foot on the start for Spiderman. Dead point to a crimp adjust your feet and slap to good holds on the lip.

Definitely a Bay Area test piece.

To the left of the Spider-Man proj. Start on two side pulls and make a commiting but easy dynamic move to a jug. Top out and climb down the tree. Try not to fall on the tree it’s a flash or die type of situation.

Awhile ago I joked about a 360 traverse of stoneface to my friend. She for some reason took this seriously and started trying it. She did the v11 part (anger management extension) pretty easily. There was a weird lip traverse to get around one of the trees. Then you came to these two crimps with good feet. The next part is an overhanging prow. We started to try this in iso and could only do a couple parts. Analise got all the moves on this v10 part except for the main crux. The main crux involved bumping from a terrible crimp to a sloper sidepull and then coming into a sloper undercling. Then you would do the main crux move: you would come into a sloping pinch. I don’t know how but she held it as if she was doing a sign language “Q” (look it up). She didn’t link all the moves and the climb was forgotten for a bit. Today we went back to stoneface and  while I struggled on v5’s Analise was speaking sign language with the wall.

Analise’s send video:

https://youtu.be/deUiE29Cef4

The 360 degree traverse will likely be linked soon once we go back.

The climb to the left of Anger Management (V9). Start on a flat edge/jug and go up the bulge.

Climb in detail:

Start on a good rail with decent feet. Then, left hand goes up into an undercland. Sort your feet and either go to an intermediate little thing and then a verrrrrry sharp and small and oh soooo painful crimp or just go straight to the crimp from the underclang. Get a right heel on the start rail and come into a a sideull edge. Then, right hand goes to a pretty good but soooooooo sharp and painful crimp.

And yes as you may have noticed the climb is heinous, sharp, painful and choosy but it's hard so whatever.

Sit start on a jug rail, then move up the overhang with a few big moves on crimps.  Top out over the bulge without dabbing on the tree.

I would say this is the most obvious and appealing line on this side of the boulder.

Description

Protection

Routes in Great Stone Face