Since the climb begins over a bench, be careful   choosing foot and hand holds for the first few   moves. About 1/3 of the way up the route is the   crux — an especially smooth section that requires   a high left foot and potentially dynamic reach to a   good positive horizontal shelf. Match hands here   before proceeding to the final sequence surrounded by scraggly vegetation but with a clean series   of holds. Use a recessed stone to the right of the   route’s trajectory for a final solid foot before topping out.

A Very Clever Ladder

No Tidings of My Man

No. 264

Jugovick's Detail

Gross Neglect

The wall has a slight ledge   at its base which drops off to the right of the start.   Looks for gaps where mortar is missing from the   wall and reddish mortar revealed where some of   the pointing has crumbled. The coping is almost   completely missing from the a section at the top   of this area.   The Wissahickon Schist selected for this part of   the wall is especially jagged for the first half of the   climb. A large, lightly colored rectangular stone is   set back about 2” deeper than its neighbors near   the halfway mark. Following this ledge is a challenging series of distant crimps, zig-zagging a path   up to a sparse, dynamic finish.

This crack starts generously at the bottom and   becomes narrower as it goes up before disappearing to liberally applied mortar marking an   especially challenging crux. Use the broken edge   of the mortar as a left side-pull to cross to a high   crimp and work your way through a forgiving final   sequence to the climb’s completion.

 Start   below the cavernous opening shaped like a downward-pointing arrow and work your way up the   large crack offering positive, if flakey holds for   the first 2/3 of the wall. At this point the quality   of stone changes dramatically to smoother, more   rectangular blocks with only small crimps for purchase. You will have to work your way to the left of   the crack to move past the crux. Beware of flaking mortar and active bird’s nests in the crack and   be careful when topping out - the jagged concrete   aggregate that forms the wall’s coping will draw   blood.

Be careful on the start of the climb to avoid   falling on rotten wood and rusted metal. After the first quarter of the ascent, sloppy   patched mortar makes a challenging second   quarter, with a few choice crimps pulling you   through to the cruxy third quarter. You will   have to traverse to the right of the initial   crack to reach a series of good foot holds   and a single high crimp for the top out.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The North Wall