BRIGHT PHOEBUS - 5.10a *** 80' F (9b)

Begin between the two close together pines and climb directly up to the chain anchors on the slab above the roof. This is a delightful slab/face climb with interesting moves, consistent challenges and sustained 5.8 to 5.9 climbing except for the short crux section just below the upper overhangs. Follow the bolts through the weakness right of the large roof.

Bright Phoebus

No Foolin'

April Fool

Shadow of the Hierophant

Gift of the Magi

Fool's Gold

Fools Rush In

Fool Proof

Gift of the Magi 5.7 ** 65' F(6b)

Climbs the slab at the left end of the face to the crux finish and 2 ring anchors below the roof. Very good slab climbing (if a bit contrived to avoid taking an easy way to the right - especially at the start and finish).

No Foolin' 5.8 *** 80' F(7b)

Begin about 15' right of "Shadow of the Hierophant", and climb directly up the line just left of the old fir at the top lip to the 2 chains over the top. Sustained and varied climbing.

April Fool 5.8 * 60' M(4b)

Takes a direct line below the old fir tree near the top, beginning just a few feet right of "No Foolin", to the sling anchor at the tree.

SHADOW OF THE HIEROPHANT 5.9 ** 85' M(7b)

Begin about 15' right of Bright Phoebus and follow the intermittent vertical line through the roof to the chain anchors on the upper slab. Several small and medium cams needed.

Fool's Gold - 5.7 * (40') F(4b)

Begin at the far right end of the cliff (just 5' left and down from the pine at the base of the cliff), and climb the slab to the 2 chain anchors below the roof.

Fools Rush In 5.9 ** 50' M(3b)

Begin about 10' right of "April Fool" and climb directly up to the 2 chain anchors below the sharp fractured roof right of the fir tree. Needs a range of gear, tiny stoppers to small cams for the gear protected cruxes.

Fool Proof 5.7 * (40') M(1b)

A short but sustained trad line at the far right side of the cliff. Begin at the pine tree at the base, step left onto the face from above the tree, and climb the right edge of the face and thin intermittent crack above to the directional bolt below the roof. Traverse left 5' to share the chain anchors with "Fool's Gold".

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper East Canyon