P1) Seam to flake past a bolt under a left facing corner. Diagonal right into a shallow chimney. Belay in a scoop on the left face beneath twin cracks. 70m 5.11c P2) Gain the ledge above the twin cracks and traverse the face (under the rap station) with a short slab crux to the base of the corner. 20m 5.10a P3) Climb the giant left facing corner you see from the road. 70m of mostly 3s and 4s. Amazing 5-star pitch. 5.11c P4) Move left from the anchor, then weave right through a short overhang and back left on the path of least resistance to a wide crack and slung horn on the ridge. 45m 5.10b

 Rap with two 70s from a slung horn on top followed by three bolted stations, trending climber’s left

Forbidden Fruit

The Wrath

P1/2) This mega 80m pitch starts in a left-leaning groove just left of the end of the chimney on the far right side of Eden Wall. Exit the groove right at a bolt following thin cracks to a layback. Splitter big hands take you to the chimney flare and a bolted station at the base of the corner. 80m 5.11b P3) Stem and layback your way up the corner on small gear to a bolted anchor. 25m 5.11+ P4) Layback and undercling out a roof. Turn the lip with huge exposure into a layback against a 6-inch foot rail. Take care to keep the rope out of the crack at the lip (there is gear to do this). Gun it up the amazing crack to a large ledge and rap station. 40m 5.12a

Behind and left of the main dome with the GIANT left-facing corner at half-height

Description

Protection

Routes in Eden Wall