Begin by climbing the steep bottom section on good holds to a decent rest. Veer right after the fourth bolt by completing some difficult, bouldery moves on bad holds to gain access to a large, hanging feature. Turn the lip mantling and complete the final, tricky pulls on the vertical face to clip the anchors. 

  This route seemed hard for the grade (12c) and the crux moves felt more 12+/13- to me, but it was also really dirty.

George

The Little School Boy

Jerk Off

Jorge Cantstaña

Bandit

Rebecca

The Forgotten

Scott

Doug

Oktoberfest

Gromit

Pipsqueak

Hanging Meatloaf

Budro

Big Bad Love (a.k.a. Bill)

Volver de La Belle Epoque

Sculie

Ed's Line

Abbey

HIVD

Julie

Butch

Mulva de la Doloris

Scottie Pippen

A few hard moves off the deck, lead to big moves on big holds for two bolts. After a great rest you enter the crux, four or five moves on 1/2" crimps culminating in a large lock off to a incut pinch. You get another good rest above the crux. Then start up the final head wall, which can't be any harder then 10c or d.

Same start as Pipsqueak, but splits left at first horizontal through powerful underlings and small hardly positive holds.

 Lots of beta options, felt a bit harder than its neighbor.

Short and steep on solid rock with movement that is interesting for The Tunnel. If you're sick of lock-off high-steps, you can find a little variety here.  Jugs to the first bolt and pretty sustained difficulty to the finish, this is the perfect boulderer's route - felt like V0 to V6 to V5 to me.  

  Start on jugs for a few moves to the first bolt. (You may want to stick clip just in case you blow but if you feel up to a climb like this, you shouldn't have any difficulty clipping it as you go.) Double gastons and a few good pinches lead up and right to the second bolt.  Go up to a couple of large ok slopers and work over into a short right facing rail. From here you hit a couple of good jugs and clip the third bolt. A similar sequence above this bolt to a committing move to the juggy seam above leads to the chains.

Direct start and finish to George. Starts just to the Right of George. Climb up past three bolts, traverse left into the crux section of George, clip the crux bolt on George. Make a few moves to the right, skip the next bolt on George, and instead of standing up on the ledge above the roof bust out left and make committing moves to a a giant slopper. Shares the last bolt of George and the anchors on George.

Bandit is another typical Shady Side 5.11, with difficult opening moves, and unnerving rounded slopers higher up.  Begin as for Butch, but once in the undercling head up and right with powerful moves (for the grade).  Continue on pumping slopers to another difficult section on thin slopers just below the chains.

Bouldery start to some insecure slab moves leads to a good rest.  Tricky move over a bulge to some enjoyable climbing with excellent exposure.  Get on it!

Start in the left angling seam on jugs then cut directly right to hit the dynamic move out to good left leaning ledge. Follow this up and left to get to the vertical face/crux with an obvious sequence and a deadpoint finish. A few face moves gets you to the flake/crack to follow to the anchors.  

  A few of these moves down low are very close to Julie so time your ascents if people are on both.

This route ascends some of the best rock at the shady side.  Unfortunately the route only has 2 or 3 really challenging moves (for a route of this grade).  Begin with big moves on enormous jugs, to a stance just below the lip of the bulge.  Rest what you can, then turn the bulge on small holds, and a cool rock-over move.  The crux is getting established on the headwall, from where trivial moves lead up and left to the anchor.

This challenging line offers several distinct difficult sections of climbing.  The route begins with powerful 12- moves out the steep overhang, ending in a no-hands stem-rest below the final bulge.  From here, a seemingly reach-dependant V6 or V7 crux dyno from an undercling at the 4th bolt leads to a technical, pumpy 12- headwall finish.

Boulder problem start into long moves. 

 Key crux hold broke at start july 2019. Was stiff 12c now harder but doable. 

This miniscule route offers excellent, bouldery crimping and heel hooking on decent rock.  The difficulties are sustained while they last, but unfortunately the business is over almost as soon as it begins.

Seldom climbed line although the movement is great. Unfortunately, water seems to drip down the crack covering the holds in a lime sediment that needs frequent cleaning. Likely a 3 star route if it gets more traffic or if someone has taken a brush to it recently.

 The hardest moves are all back to back gastons right off the bat. The juggy overhung layback "hanging meatloaf" section into the stemming is as fun as it looks. 

This potentially decent route appears to suffer considerably from neglect.  A powerful, sequential boulder problem start leads to a poor, dirty rest, followed by endurance climbing up more dirty slopers.  If clean this route might be quite enjoyable, but in its typical state, the route will feel sandbagged and unpleasant.  Graded 11b in the Rock and Ice guide.

This beauty features the best stone on the Shady Side.  Unfortunately this line is also the only drainage for a significantly sized canyon above.  As such, dirt, leaves, rocks and water stream down the route every time it rains, which is rare, but, due to the sparsity of climbers, happens frequently enough to ensure that you will need to clean this route before you attempt a redpoint.  The crux is at the 3rd bolt, so I recommend you head up from the ground and see how it goes before you commit to the several hours it will take to brush down the entire route.  If you can manage the extremely powerful crux, nothing above the lip of the overhanging will slow you down. 

  In addition to the water hazard, this route is often used by the local Search and Rescue squad for various training exercises, and features a convenient rap anchor at the cliff top.  For this reason, you might thing twice about fixing your draws for an extended period of time. 

  The route begins with long, powerful moves on a slightly leftward traverse, to a sick-hard move at the 2nd bolt.  From here, a commiting dyno leads to a good jug.  At the 4th bolt, a technical rock-over gains the headwall, followed by a left-ward traverse to an easy stance.  More trivial moves lead to a final technical boulder problem on insecure slopers just below the anchor.

Initially bolted by John Hymer and Chris Grijalva this route sat as an open project for years until Cody Roth got the first ascent in 2013.  Nick Duttle got the second ascent in 2014, and Tunnel local Ken Peterson got the third ascent in 2015. 

  Initially graded 14b, and considered to have 2x V12 cruxes, subsequent ascents have found better beta perhaps dropping the grade a bit.

Start on Scott. At the third bolt cruise left on good holds and nice moves to the big flat jug to clip the bolt for the crux of Julie. Crush the big move and finish up Julie. Very worthy link up, combines what makes these two climbs interesting into one. Be aware of the long run to the anchors from the last bolt on Julie.  

Rarely climbed route that is actually really interesting. A left leaning undercling flake takes you to some overhung hold pulling, a dirty ramp, small roof, and a final headwall. 

 The excitingly exposed crux is at the last headwall. High feet and proper body position is the only way to get through 3 more clips of nonstop technical climbing on oddly satisfying sharp rock different from other tunnel routes. 

 Easily a 3 star adventure once cleaned up. Hymer's guide calls it 11d but that felt kinda ridiculous...

Compared to Scott it has a harder crux move.  

  Start with a right sidepull and tricky feet to get the not-so-great hold below the first bolt or move slightly right to use an undercling start. Either way you'll want to have your right hand out of the way of the rope as you throw for the next hold getting to the second bolt. From here take your rests as you get them since the sequence of sloper-highstep-lockoff-reach moves can pump you out at the top. Clip with the anchors at your chest for the best holds.

An extremely bouldery start with challenging moves thru the first three bolts leads to easier climbing on slightly better holds.  Rest well when you can as a tricky committing move awaits up high. 

  This route felt really hard for 12b, the crux moves felt as hard or harder than the cruxes on George and Julie.

Starting on the left side of the large feature just left of Scott, make the big moves up the steep face on increasingly worse holds until just below the lip, where you'll be faced with the last move of the crux: an explosive throw to a rounded jug. This is the hardest single move on the route and for some it will be low percentage and definitely harder if you're short. From here, manage the pump factor before completing several long reaches on rounded edges. Don't fall doing the last big move before clipping the chains as there is quite some distance to the last clipped draw. 

  This route seems likely on the harder side of 12c when compared to others of a similar grade at the Tunnel

This fine route is one of the best of its grade at the Shady Side.  If not for unusually dirty rock, the route would be 3 stars.  Begin just right of the obvious undercling flake.  A shouldery move gains the undercling, from which its easy to reach a good rail, and traverse three feet left to a rounded, vertical seam.  Follow the weakness up classic Shady Side slopey crimps, fighting the pump all the way to the anchor.

Start on volver clip the forth bolt and traverse left. Enjoy the upper headwall, some of the best rock on the shady side.

While this route is a bit of a star suck to the classic Scott, it adds another V4 boulder problem and takes you to the top of the cliff.  

  Climb Scott to the original anchors, place a runner on the anchor and climb up and right to a ledge system and the first bolt on the extension.  It is critical here to not climb the choss directly above the anchor, take the path of least resistance which involves moving right out of the corner, then up to the first bolt.  From here, step left ignoring the blank wall below the second bolt, make a few fun moves up to good pockets and slap for the lip of the wall onto typical tunnel slopers.  Make a few engaging moves, a difficult second clip, and pull into a no hands stance in a corner system.  Make a few easier but heady moves on marginal rock up to the anchors. 

  FA is considering re-bolting at some point to make it safer and easier to follow. 

  FA team wanted to grade this 11d, but since you have to climb Scott to get to the extension, seems like it should get at least 12a.

This is the furthest left section of cliff, and the first encountered along the approach.  Routes on the left half of the wall are super steep and bouldery, with generally only 2 or 3 hard moves, and lots of jugs.  This cliff is very exposed, so be sure to use a stick clip on these routes.  On the right side of this cliff section, routes are vertical to slabby, more moderate and technical. 

  Several routes in this area are named for the graffiti that adorn the route's base. 

  From Left to Right, routes are:   1. Pipsqueak, 5.13a   2. Volver de La Belle Epoque, 5.14b   3. Doug, 5.13a   4. Oktoberfest, 5.13b   5. Big Bad Love (a.k.a. Bill), 5.13c   5.1. Project? - Not Sure   6. Rebecca, 5.13a   7. George, 5.12c   7.1 Jorge Cantstaña, 5.13b   8. Jerk Off, 5.13a   9. Julie, 5.12c   10. Scott, 5.12a   11. Hanging Meatloaf, 5.12d   12. RURP Crack (no bolts), 5.11b   13. Tunnel Visions, 5.12a (starts up 12, joins 14 at 4th bolt)   13.1 New Unknown Route?   14. HIVD, 5.12b   15. Gromit, 5.12c   16. Abbey, 5.12a   17. Butch, 5.11c   18. Bandit, 5.11a (shares 1st bolt with #17)   19. Budro, 5.11c   20. Project?

George

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shady Side Left