Just left of the DC Cave is a nice slab leading to a square roof. Climb the slab and get some high gear out right in a horizontal crack, 4' beneath the roof. Tech your way out of the dihedral and around the right side of the roof. Follow two parallel vertical seams to a vertical orange headwall finish or take easier terrain to the right.

Black Heart

Slice Of American Pie

DC Crack

Girls With Guns

Top Chuff

Jelly Belly

Good Karma

Beast Mode

Sucker Punch

Raw Meat

Vertical Horizon

Climb the slab to the left of the cave to stand on a ledge at the base of the orange arete. Make a couple moves straight up and swing around the right side of the arete. Ride the right side of the arete to a tricky ending.

This is a very tricky route that will probably take rehearsing to find the holds and the sequence.

Climb the slab to the ledge beneath the arete. Use the same first couple holds as Slice but continue straight up the arete staying just right of the first two bolts on the face. From here make a big iron cross out left to a side pull and slap the arete with the right hand while searching for hidden features on the face for the left. After a tricky sequence either pull right around the top of the arete to a no hand rest or find a good stance under the roof. Pull up and left onto a juggy headwall finish.

a very steep roof pull with a short but technical headwall finish.

Use the same start as Jelly Belly except stay slightly left on the upper slab to gain a stance beneath a bolt high on the face above. Get a cam in a slot beneath the face and blast off aiming for a ledge out left. After a shake, step back right onto the face and enjoy fun climbing past mostly bolts and a couple small pieces to protect the top.

The movement up the first face is pretty fun; with the second part being very bouldery and hard to read if the holds aren't chaulked. Rehearsing this one isn't a bad idea unless you're into a hard onsite but with the right sequence it goes well.

Stick clip the first bolt and tick tack your way up the center of the face to a ledge. Fire a fingery sequence to finish on the final moves of Girls With Guns.

One of the very few dead flat roof climbs in the park. It is a short push through letter box slots underneath the otherwise featureless roof and finishing through a very thin headwall

Stick clip the first bolt and climb up the far right corner of the cave to get established underneath it’s right side on a huge jug tooth feature. The roof actually forces you to climb diagonally through it’s length instead of straight out which would be considerably shorter. From the right corner, climb through multiple letter boxes until you are confronted by a large dynamic toss to the final letterbox which is followed by desperation to the lip of the roof. From here get your bearings and unlock the cryptic boulder problem between you in the anchors.

Stick clip the first bolt. Get your hands purchased on a ledge 8' off the ground and grind through a 45 degree angle boulder problem past two bolts.

This line used to begin from the ground because the gully to the right was so overgrown with trees and tree falls that it was impassable. Now that the gully is cleaned out, it does make the wall look and climb so much better but fortunately or unfortunately, you can now walk up the gully and traverse left across a ledge to skip the first dicey section which definitely added some spice. If you start from the ground, stick clip the first bolt.

Start to the far right side of the cave and climb the delicate 25' face past two bolts to the base of the crack. Climb the crack using an assortment of gear including medium to large cams.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in DC Cave