This is the obvious right-facing corner as you see it on the approach trail. It's a very striking feature that unfortunately bears terrible rock. For the true choss aficionado only.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 100 feet): Start in the left-facing corner as for Roast Beast, but pass the first tree on its left side, moving up a slabby left-facing corner/arch and past a mellow face/slab to a two-bolt chain anchor on the big halfway ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.10-, 100 feet): Climb the big corner to the top of the formation. The start has twin crack systems - take the right one, in which scary broken finger cracks lead past several tiny teetering ledges to an obvious/natural crossover left into the main corner. Finally, some good varnished sandstone! Soon followed by a couple squishy mud layers. Hands, fists, and offwidth up to the final chockstone move. You survived! Belay from one of two trees.

Rappel the route (2x 100')

Chapulín Corner

Roast Beast

This is the forked crack that carves up the clean face to the right of Chapulín Corner. Despite being hidden from view on the approach, this line is hard to ignore from the main saddle. It's all about the second pitch.Pitch 1 (5.8, 100 feet): The approach pitch. Traverse in from the left (small nuts protect the junky 5.7 mantel) into the short left-facing corner directly below the large tree. Crawl/scramble under the right side of the tree and ramble up dirty 4th-class ledges to another short left-facing corner below another large tree. Belay from the tree or, better yet, with gear in the main crack.Pitch 2 (5.10-, 100 feet): Soaring sky crack with hands/fists/offwidth on quality stone. The crux comes two-thirds of the way up at a short left-curving off-fists section. From the ledge above the crux, things get exciting as the crack jogs left and bifurcates into two forks. Shuffle left and pick your choice of finale: straight up is the right fork (5.9 handcrack to a series of airy mantels), while another ten feet left along the ledge brings you to the left fork (5.10- hand-fist crack).Descent: Walk 50 feet left (west) along the lip of the wall to the top of Chapulín Corner. Rappel 100 feet from the tree, then another 100 feet from a two-bolt chain anchor on the midway ledge.

Of the two prominent towers extending south from Castle Rock, this is the north one. It has a cubic shape and a flat top. The summit can be scrambled via the northeast and northwest gullies (3rd class).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in North Castle Tower