Big roof, climb up side, airy, heady finish.

In the Roof

Cuddle Puddle

Guide's 10 (George's Dilemma)

Guide's 8

Zendo

Guide's 11

Nothing

Macdaddy Hensley Roof

5.8+ Arete

Guide's 10b

FunBoy

Never Ending Story

Nine In The Corner

Pockets Full of Sunshine

World's Hardest 5.9

The Grind

Climb easy rock and good holds up left of a large roof (Barnes' 10). Transition to thinner holds and slabby rock to mantle for a top out.

Pull through pockets and horizontal edges past a low first bolt and a ledge 12ft up. Grab the first good hold above the ledge and clip a high second bolt. Work a tricky sidepull/undercling combo with slick feet to more layback climbing and another bolt. Move through a few delicate moves to a final roof and the anchors above.

Start is shared with Guide's 11. Climb large reachy pockets to a second bolt. Begin to angle out left and up towards a narrow portion of the roof. Pull the technical crux just past the roof, and proceed onward and upward to cold shuts.

Beware of the very real potential for smaller modern ropes to get jammed in the crack as you pull through the roof moves... This is how the route got its nickname.

Climb easy holds and large pockets past a right-facing roof 20' up. Continue straight up past shallow dihedral to pull technical crux to easing terrain and anchors. Avoid the left traverse under the 2nd roof for a slightly dynamic crux move.

Climb up tricky terrain past a bolt to a thin ledge. Clip a high second bolt, and continue up past wide handholds, to easing terrain and anchors. Beware the groundfall potential past 2nd bolt.

Climb the face for 40 feet alternating between reachy pockets and bolts, to an excellent arm bar rest beneath a small roof. Pull the technical crux on a thin right-facing flake and very thin crimps to cruise up to the anchors.

Work up an off vertical face of pockets and edges using a few holds around the left arete to a cap overhanging the route. Reach for jugs in the center and left side of the overhang, establish above the overhang and make a big reach to the next good hold. Romp through 10-15 more feet of easy face climbing to the anchors.

The first two bolts are shared with Never Ending Story. Then trend left up small crimps to reach the roof. Power your way up the roof with amazing hands. Find whatever you can for feet. The grade is much easier after the roof.

Climb the pocketed face just left of the arête past two bolts to reach a ledge. Clip third bolt from ledge, which may be difficult to spot from the ground. Move out to the right side of the arête to a tree on the ledge and continue up the right face past four more bolts. Climb up to second ledge, clip fourth bolt and push through the technical crux to reach two more bolts and anchors.

Follow the bolts up the face through the v slot, then around the arete to a slabby finish.  The exposure as you step out towards the arete on the top face makes the climb.

Climb up some tricky terrain to a high bolt above the Zendo ledge. Continue upwards through the technical crux, and a small bulge to cruise up to the anchors.

Start on the slab ramp up good rock to a high first bolt. Move into the reddish colored rock, with excellent texture. Follow the right bolt line up and to the right of the roof. Pull the roof and follow the easier ground to the cold shut anchors.

Climb up the left facing corner to the second bolt. Move just past the bolt and traverse right to the other side of the arete. Clip the third bolt and make the move past the bulgy crux. Move up and slightly right up easier ground past three more bolts to the cold shut anchors.

The last three bolts are more widely spaced, but the climbing is easier.

Climb up the pocketed face on good holds. The crux comes at the bulge between bolts 3 and 4. Then climb up to the mid wall anchors on your left.

Start at the arete where two overlapping flakes meet. Move through the slot to easier face climbing.

In the Roof

Description

Protection

Routes in Sunshine Wall (Guide Wall)